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For steel barrels you may want to check out recycling companies near you. I found a place near me in Massachusetts that was selling 55 gallon drums with bungs for $10. They were essentially brand new, clean original paint, no scratch's. Were only used once for shipping various cooking oils. I...

If the ammeter is hanging in the red it means the alternator is not putting out any current. (Battery is draining while the genset is running) I'd suggest you first check Fuse #1 (FU1). It's the one for the alternator output. My fuse #1 was bad the first time I brought my 802 back to life...

Instead of ordering the MOV's I'd be happy to mail you a couple of them. I only used 1 of the 10 I purchased. If you'd like a pair of MOV's PM me your mailing address and I'll pop them in the mail to you.

I don't have any specific info on how to do it or if it's possible. I never tore into my regulator to see if it was possible. The idea of replacing the diode bridge with one with a higher PRV rating was suggested by another forum member a while back. The only info I have is the TB indicates...

Fuse Holder is PN: BM6031SQ it's $5-$10 and is available from Mouser, Allied, Newark, Grainger... The Fuse is PN: FNQ-R-3 it's ~$32 and is also available from Mouser, Allied, Newark, Grainger... The MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor) I purchased from Amazon. $5.40 for a bag of 10...

Here it is in my 802. The circular blue disc is a MOV that I added to prevent the voltage spikes that can take out the diode bridge in the voltage regulator.

My 802 already had a Solargizer mounted to it when I pick it up from Ft. Meade. A couple of pics of it's mounting. The solar panel is mounted to the top with 4 bolts thru the top (nuts and lock washers on the inside) Small hole near the panel for the wires to pass thru to the interior. (Small...

Yup - see chapter 5.1 in the TB above for the details

The battery meter indicates if the battery is charging (in the green area) or discharging (in the Red area). When the master switch is first set to run/prime you'll notice the needle go slightly into the red because the battery is providing power to the fuel pump(s) and the genset hasn't been...

Kudo's! I like the thumbs up at the end. :-D

Agreed. A couple of 12v batteries in series would do the trick. Generally 24 volt inverters will work with a 28 volt input. They usually are happy with ~20-32 volts depending on the make/model. Be sure to check the inverters spec sheet to be sure!

Guyfang, Could you work up that list of common 802/803 failures? I've got a 1997 802 with 1,400 hrs on it. Myself and probably many others would like to know so we can know what to expect and what parts we may want to keep on hand. Thx!

Yes - the burden resistors are used in the current measuring circuit as well as the AM/VM switch. Sometimes just exercising the AM/VM switch will correct the problem. Any corrosion on it's internal contacts will result is poor connection which will result in the incorrect amount of current load...

The 802 uses P/N 88-21132 Cage Code 60177 The 803 uses the same current transformer as the 802 It's listed on in the TM on PDF page 51 item 36 I believe it's made by Technology Research. Their P/N is 19460

TM-9-6115-642-24 PDF page 277 indicates that each wire passed thru the CT's 4 time. There should be two wires looping 4 times thru each CT opening.

I believe Korgoth1's MEP-803A only has 2 pumps, the primary fuel transfer pump and the Aux fill pump.

Hopefully it'll work for you now. Keep us posted on how you make out. The master switch and the AM/VM switch's are notorious for having the plastic shafts break on them. My 802 came with a broken master switch. Replaced it with a steel shaft version.

Sounds like you AM/VM switch is spotty. The burden resistors and current transformers have no effect on the voltmeters operation. Part of the AM/VM switch switch's the burden resistors and %Load meter. A separate part of the switch controls the Voltmeter.

R10-R12 are the "burden" resistors for the current transformers 3 outputs. The resistance of the burden resistors across the current transformers has to be accurate. If the resistance is not correct the generator will think the load on it is higher or lower than the actual load on it.

I noticed on my 802 that the %Load meter was reading oddly high for a given load. Turns out the contacts in the load reconnection switch that had to do with connecting the "burden" resistors to the current transformers weren't making good contact. Due to the added resistance from the poor...