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I had a 1986 Eaton Yale electric forklift that had a safety switch under the seat so they have been around a while, I also have a Clark with one that is very annoying as it kicks off if you lean forward to see the forks

Most electric forklifts also contain a safety switch under the seat to make sure someone is sitting on it when the levers are activated, these safety switches are prone to failure.

The front panel outlet is not designed to pull 3000 watts, you may have been seeing voltage drop due to wiring size

Yes, I split the load if the generator is wired 120/240

Another good choice is an old electric stove top (typically good for about 8,000 watts), these can often be found on craigslist, etc for under $100, Personally I like to use cheap hair dryers, they are each good for about 1,500 watts (often advertised at 1850 watt), and can be found for $5-$7...

If it is the output transistor they are easy to change for anyone with basic soldering skill, just don't let them get too hot.

On the first one this is commonly caused by bad output transistor on the voltage regulator board located on the left side inside the control panel box. There can be other causes but output transistor is most common, since you have a second one there it should be easy to swap AVR circuit boards...

In general most electric forklifts should be nearly silent with the key in the on position and no action being done (just the tick of the hour meter should be heard)

This is why we say to use the FRAM filters

While I don't know any details about this particular governor, most of these type units use a flyball weight system to operate the governor and my first guess would be sticking flyballs or linkage. How long have you let it run, it is possible that given a little time the sticking problem could...

The slow charge rate on the MEP-002 can be overcome with the use of a Solargizer 24V solar charger (some are already equipped with one). While you are likely to get a bit better commercial support on the Kohler don't expect it to be great, these are 20 year old designs and not a popular model...

These are roughly comparable in output to the MEP-002a, I think the generator model may be Kohler 7CCE commercial series unit built in the 1990's. From what I have researched on this style light tower in the past is that most are 1970's production originally equipped with gasoline generators...

Even if it is not high centerred I suspect the motors and brakes will not be able to control it well at that angle and should rig a safety line, the angle on the dovetail for that trailer looks to be about double the angle that a typical electric forklift can handle.

I think the original oil pressure gauge uses a 1/4 NPT stub on the back (double check me on this one), that advance one may have a 1/8 inch it is hard to tell from the photo. I if you have one near you I think tractor supply has ones with 1/4 NPT stubs, if not you could use a 1/4 to 1/8...

The click from near the injection pump is likely the fuel cut off solenoid opening

Since you have one I too would swap out the AVR board, while the problem may be something else, I would consider the AVR board to be likely and an easy swap.

The first thing I would check is all the ground connections, including the one between the control box and the frame.

If voltage is dropping at the generator and frequency is not dropping then it is most likely a problem with the voltage regulator board or one of its associated parts

If voltage did not drop at the generator check the wiring connection going into the house, this is a symptom of a bad wire / connection which is a fire hazard.

The 3 most common fork lift levers from left to right are, lift, tilt, and side shift. It is common for forklifts that do not have a side shift mechanism to still have the 3rd lever.