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Same here... This is the first time we hear of anyone talking about 50% less steering effort...! G.

I just read the whole thread... again! ... hoping to find where you said (did you...???) that the front wheel cylinders have both been checked/ serviced; that you are 100% sure there isn't one of the pistons frozen, sticking in one of the WC's... and such... Really basic things. Pulling that...

Most of it, yes ASAP... Too many to list... The Forum-Owner is the one who really decides that... G.

Same with the late generation HMMWV tires. That stuff in there is a lubricant for the run-flat insert to work properly, but it is also way to sticky to imagine that golf balls or anything solid would be able to roll freely, inside. There must be a reason the HMMWV tires/ wheels come balanced...

:ditto: See that oil pick-up tube explained, here... And this post shows two of the holes you will use (#1) The shifter/ handle goes on the left side, between door and e-brake lever. G.

Agreed. But don't forget that even in the (hypothetical) case that it always remained perfectly horizontal, during operation oil always gets on the axle shaft ends and from there, creeping outwards along the shaft, and finally collecting into the cavity between axle flange and (outer)seal. Once...

OK, OK... See this thread... and eventually contact Gimpyrobb. He claims he's done it. Here is another thread, with pics from Barrman... Many ways to skin a cat... If I had to remove those 395-inserts I would proceed exactly as with the smaller HMMWV parts: simply pull them out with a...

That, your last sentence, it could almost be taken as sarcasm, or...??? :-) Good, if you have read all my posts about (statically)balancing..., then you know what I would tell you works best... I just don't want to be repetitive, that's all. Also, not everyone is into building his own...

Yes, that wheel will fit on MRAP's and/ or any other truck with the "European" hub-centered, 10-bolt pattern (= 10 holes on a 335mm-bolt circle). Those tires (and wheels) seem to be in very good shape! From how the bolts look I think they have been stored inside. I see no problem to use a...

I think we can both agree on that... :-) Avoid rubber, we are talking about tons per square inch here. Use dry carton board; that will not tend to squeeze out! Also carton will "absorb" anything that would act as lubricant - like paint for example...! G.

Tigger... I can only say you are a lucky man! They should have serrations there YES, and those should be kept clean and dry, YES.... but that's not always the case. What I suggested works always and is idiot-proof, you may believe it or not... G.

That is good advice and I agree; a piece of grown wood may split - with possibly bad consequences...! But let me add this: Absolutely YES: something like a piece of clean carton board should always be used there - to prevent any slippage! A bottle jack pressing against bare steel - or even...

Holes in 2nd pic... #1. 2 holes, for the mounting bolts, for the left side bracket holding the shaft of the shift lever for the TC-PTO. #2. 4 holes for the bolts to hold the bracket of the old style e-brake handle, (+ 1 knock-out hole for the cable of the same) #3. 1 (of 4) holes for the seat...

Well, what about if it was just the opposite...? Those are not bearings, or ? I could be wrong, but I would say they are more like heavy duty ball joints- which do have a certain drag, especially while new, don't they...? On the other hand there is no drag in a vulcanized, rubber-mounted...

Check out our own library: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?79228-TM-s-for-the-939-series-trucks Basically any of the -272-24 books. G.

Here are two threads that are related... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?94922-M35a3-spindles-and-bearings-change and http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?54617-A3-Wheel-Bearings Not "been there", yet... but it doesn't seem too difficult to remove the air inlet and epoxy...

In case you haven't seen it, this is a good thread... G.

Here and here are pics of actually three axle shaft-styles that came factory-installed in our M44 trucks, over all these years. If there is one member here who knows them all... and can tell which one is the strongest, that would be Steve6x6x6, for sure! I think, the CON-VEL's (AKA...

M35A3 with M35A2 transmission... That particular swap: I have not seen it done yet, but I'm certain that the A2's Spicer 3053 will fit- and work nicely- behind your engine. No problem at all with the position of the shift lever. In the worst case its material allows for it to be heated and...

Glad to help. But hey, you are one of the "old members" here, so you should know already that most every MV-related question has probably been asked somehow... That's why we encourage people to search... and if possible NOT start a new thread... to ask the same questions over and over, again...