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Thanks for the inputs! Machining would be nice, but I think it may be too soft for that, I have trouble visualizing it. The hardness is probably close to that of an O-ring. I have several of these fuel control valves and removing one of these plungers puts it out of commission, so to speak, but...

The rubber "button" comes off as shown in the 2nd image above. Making a new part is an idea...

The image below shows a plunger portion of the shut-off valve for the SW fuel burning heater. The rubber/plastic "plug" has been seated against the valve opening for twenty some years and now has an imprint, which causes the valve not to seat correctly at all times, it may or may not leak...

Are you using the pf906 as primary? From the info I find it's a 4 micron filter and, IMHO not suitable as a primary. The pressure is only 6-8 psi at this location and even a slightly used 4-micron filter may present a big pressure drop, putting a strain on the IP boost pump. I'm not an expert on...

As always, thank you Kenny! No problem storing the turbo. Images bring back some memories. :-)

Yes, and there is also a difference in the nominal micron ratings, 40 for the original and 10 for the substitute (3511 or 86511). Primary filters/water separators on other trucks also have a larger mesh, say 30 to 50 microns. You decide what's best for yours. BTW, the original final and...

The gasket that comes with the secondary and final filters (Carquest 86540) will fit the primary, so save them. Of course, the original part number primary comes with the correct gasket also.

I agree with you... Note that the original primary is rated 40 microns. Images below show the difference. Try SECO in Augusta GA for original filters, specify the part number called out in the TMs. Should be about $20. Memphis used to have them also. The original can be wiped off and reused.

Thanks Kenny! The first of several MOs will go out tomorrow. Brandon left a turbo here, looks like a "C", do you want it shipped to Florida? Some images from the visit below...

Wow, if it was closer you'd have a lot of takers, no doubt, locking diffs and all. Good luck!

I like to plug (pun intended), the PS Mag section of the old site, when I have a chance. Search it with the keyword "fording" for more info. On automatics, leave the plug in except maybe for checking it now and then for accumulation of fluids.

Besides the filters (the three of them), check the fuel lines, an air leak is possible. Make sure the fuel cut-off lever/mechanism on the IP is working smoothly and not sticking. As a routine check, drain some fuel from the tank and check for dirt, debris, water etc.

Good save on the rear winch drive chain and associated parts!

Good meeting you Mike and Brandon! Weather turned out good for the Saturday with a cold morning (25°F overnight), snow/rain the day before and rain all day Sunday. Was a little concerned about the biodiesel/veggie/kerosene/diesel mix in the tank, but the deuce started and ran well. Many thanks...

How is your caster? What happens when you let go of the steering wheel when driving on a level straight road?

This diagram may help your troubleshooting. Looking at the second diagram, wires #81 and #5 are connected only via the reverse polarity protection relay, so there is an error in the first one. To have power for lights, dash etc, the reverse polarity protection relay must close. Steel Soldiers ...

It's when the extreme conditions are considered when the odd design solutions begin to make sense, like the draining oil filter canisters on our military multifuel engines. They drain to make it possible to heat all the oil in the oilpan.

Okay, thank you for having patience with my questions and taking the time to respond! My 5-ton starter is rated about 9KW. At low temperatures the oil is supposed to be changed to a much less viscous 10W and at extreme low temps, the coolant/oil pan/battery heater is supposed to be used to make...

Got it. Yes, it was mentioned before, but it seems I learn more from repetition. :oops: Thanks! What is the KW rating (hp) of each starter motor?

My son found a civy '49 dodge with a flathead in it and paid $50 total for the engine. We used the HIAB crane for all the lifting, so that helped tremendously, of course, but after replacement, his '53 M37 has been running great. It's not an authentic restoration, but there are options.