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Glad I could be of assistance. Like I said before, many people have posted up the part number and photos of the hitch installed but I have not really seen any threads which detail what needs to be cut or any other complications. No prob...if one person is enlightened by the thread then it was...

Feel free to modify the thread title if necessary. I personally got tired of combing through many receiver hitch install threads about which hitch fits or how the brackets need to be cut, etc. etc. All the ones I've read had all of the information, just not in the same thread. Not trying to...

I installed a secondary Stanadyne FM100 2 micron water seperator with built in heater when I replaced my injection pump along with all the engine bay fuel lines. The install thread is below...

I picked up a 7 flat pin RV and 5 pin flat combination trailer wire connector at Napa for $30. I wired this into the NATO harness which has two weatherpack connectors right at the bumper. If I have to removed the bumper, all trailer wiring stays with the bumper. All connections got solderless...

Assuming that everything in the front end is OK, that would take a metal fabricator a whopping 5 minutes to fix. It will take him longer to get his tools out than to fix that. If you decide to go with a replacement cover, pretty much everyone makes a decent cover these days. Seems like the...

First off, a 6BT in a Blazer is way overkill. IMO, the frame is not up to the task and your 10-bolts won't last at all. I would scratch that. If you want a diesel in the Blazer other than a 6BT, I would be looking at a smaller 4BT or something Isuzu or Mitsubishi based instead. Cummins does make...

OK, that is over the line!!!!!! On a more serious note, I have an FM100 primary and secondary setup that I need to post up an install thread soon. My primary has a manual primer knob which makes bleeding a piece of cake. Not a bad $30 investment so I get ease of priming and mechanical...

Call me old fashioned but I like a manual pump ;) Bazinga!

Genuine AC Delco fuel pump on RockAuto was something like $30 shipped to my door. Perfect fit and seems like very nice quality. Just thread the steel line into it first before tightening it up to the block.

I don't think gearing swaps or a 700R4 is butchering. Even though a TH400 in stock form is much more reliable than the 700, the 700 is still fully hydraulic (other than the lockup switch) and requires no computer to function. You are not detracting from the function of a CUCV by doing that if...

Now I want a turbo...thanks!!!

Thoughts...buy a voltmeter...read the stickies...study the diagrams. It isn't too hard to diagnose the charging system and won't cost more than $100 for you to rebuild both alternators and replace both drivebelts either. You need to go through it one step at a time. Remove the GEN bulbs, clean...

If you really like your CUCV (which in the avatar appears to be pretty clean)...I would if I was you buy a first gen Cummins Dodge W350 rig and tune it. Leave the CUCV stock and just run it. If you need to drive something that cranks, look elsewhere. Or find a CUCV that has a blown or no engine...

Why Documented you say? I was tired of combing through all of the receiver hitch threads to find random information, no photos, or one photo of something that was questionably helpful. Decided to make my own thread so anyone searching would find it with no issues. My apologies if a useful one...

I think concept means simple and somewhat original. If you want a gas Chevy straight axle pickup, buy one of the millions that have already been made. Personally, I wouldn't buy a CUCV with a gas engine because 1) it has been f'd with 2) even though the 6.2 is a turd it works better in this...

My motor was starting to slow up from age. I replaced it with a reman from RockAuto...it blew the fuse immediately. They sent me another one which worked great. It also came with all the hardware and ground strap which the first one did not. I believe it was a Parts One or something like that...

Very trick setup!!!!

Agreed, chain really has almost no use being in a recovery bag other than to loop around an object to pull like a down'd tree or object. I've seen people pull up to a truck, unspool some winch cable, and yank in reverse. This shock loads the steel cable...bad idea. Even doing that with a normal...

Wouldn't this be the perfect opportunity to tap into the 24v side and use some H4 24v bulbs instead? Seems like this would remove some load off the front battery and keep the headlights nice and bright...not as succeptable to dimming when idling. I'm not sure about having both circuits on in...

I think any high grade fastener should work, I don't think you would need OEM bolts. Like CUCVNUT suggested, a junkyard hub would be a quick repair.