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Overkill. This circuit is 24 volt, call it 30 volts at maximum when alternators both malfunction to full rotor current. Voltage equals current multiplied by resistance, or 30 = I x 300, therefore current equals 1/10 ampere. Power is equal to current squared multiplied by resistance, in this...

And you are absolutely correct. Feel is far more important than torque, for one the bearings and their races are hardened steel, the threads on the nut and axle housing have **** near ZERO deflection from 50 foot pounds, considering area of thread engagement and cross sectional areas. Now, the...

50 foot pounds, then loosen to align the key, that 50 foot pounds is to clear thick grease. If you know what you are doing, it isn't hard with improvised tools. I made my own wrench for the axles, took just a few minutes.

Found yet another issue with the stock governor control, that being the switches for interlock that have to transmit a good deal of current. Off the alternator, it has 14.8 volts. At the fuse for the governor, it is down to 13 volts, by the time it gets to the governor unit itself, it is down...

Exactly, put e wire into the tube, crimp it down. Now you have a better connection that will not pull out. Regular wire crimper tool for 10 gauge works fine, crimp it 4 times or more. It will still fit 002a terminal lugs fine.

Sure, this is one. The cross bar is staked in place, forgot what size of drill. The big copper piece is the tube. Sorry for the delay, iPad was being like a typical apple product.

Do NOT solder lugs onto the wire, crimp only. What I do is make crimp T lugs from 1/4" copper tube, drilling a cross hole and using a short length of 10 gauge solid wire as the tee. This prevents pulling it out of the terminal clamp. Solder melts at at a low temperature, this can cause issues.

Well, you could bring it over here to test, I know my generator is running fine on 3 phase.

Propane does nothing to increase the percentage of fuel burn unless the engine is blowing black smoke, that means nothing for normal engines. It only works for turbo engines when the injection pump cannot inject enough fuel during the short injection window, inject too late and just smoke...

My 1031 is my tool truck. Going to do some trailer repair and modification tomorrow on a trailer. Yes, PTO generator powered repair. Not a day goes by I don't crack it open. I may only drive it once a week but use it daily.

I have some deer skulls in process of European mounts, bleached skulls. Instead of using a stove, I am using water heater element to load the generator and boil the skulls in oxyclean detergent. Most of the time, I use the boiling water for weed killing. Now the monthly run will be for hours.

Most military alternating current generators are 12 lead, meaning 6 stator windings. Including the 005a. Each winding produces 120 volts, loading only one or two windings to get single phase 120/240 will reduce output and cause vibration. The 005a requires a manual conversion to 120/240 volt...

6000 Btu is tiny, that is a half ton.

Definitely check starter cranking speed, the higher the crank speed, the hotter the air at time of injection and the least delay in igniting the injected quantity (Cetane index here also helps). When the engine is just warm, considerable heat is lost to the precombustion chamber, slower...

And why did the engineers at Dana use springs instead of shimmed bushings? Because springs provide force that varies less with displacement. Yes, springs allow movement which is wobble but precessional force cannot be damped. So it will eat nylon bushings. So swap in bronze, right? Now you...

I used ORD D60 bushing and spring kit to solve my death wobble issues, worked fine, new springs were 1/4" taller. The wobble is precession, the same thing as a wobbling top spinning on the floor. The frequency is related to the rolling mass of the wheel and the spring constant of the king pin...

It was the inner coil connection that failed. Unwound the coil to discover. Since the wire is not damaged, it is being reused.

300+ rpm! running dd starter 24 v with dual purpose marine batteries.

I have an optical tachometer, made for the model airplane hobby. It is for measuring prop speed, switchable from 2,3 and 4 blades. I put two squares of aluminum foil tape on the crank pulley and set it for a two blade prop. Works like a champ. Should be under $20, mine is a Hangar 9 brand.

I've measured the coil from slip rings to where the magnet wire goes into the coil, open circuit and no short to poles. What had happened to the alternator was a regulator failure and high voltage 14.8+. Full rotor voltage meant uncontrolled current, overheating the rotor. The drive belt was...