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Problems with running an engine at idle and not letting it reach operating temp. Steel Soldiers :: Military Vehicles Supersite

My solution was to connect the low air pressure buzzer, so that it buzzes along with the flasher. For more, see MVM Dec 2005 issue... Edit: Added image

Oh man, Leonard, it hurts just reading about it...hope you are all right.

Would be nice to be able to rebuild batteries....remove old plates and drop new ones in....yes, I know sulfuric acid, but still.

Glad to see you keeping your cool Garandfan. :-) Here is a picture, what dimension do you need? I don't own one, but make it fit or ask for specific numbers. There is nothing proprietary about it.

Best way to make sure is to remove the metering valve and check it for calibration and operation as shown below. You have two solenoid operated needle valves, one must always be "on" when unit is turned on, the second is only on in "HI" mode (the restriction valve). If, in fact you only need one...

It carries hot oil and should be rated for the job.

If you want el cheapo, try this. :-)

Kind'a flattering really to have the latest tactical trucks compared to '60s technology vehicles....how often do you see the M1 Abrams compared to the M48 Patton tank? Seem like the new are only tested in one environment, would be interesting to see them in the snow and jungle too. As far as A/C...

Use your DVM and check the sending unit for approx temps. It can be hooked up while driving, get readings and compare to the table below.

Check the starter switch and connections to it.

Improperly installed adapters?

Here is a typical schematic of a "normally open" relay/contactor. The coil may have a resistance of 100 ohms or so, the contact resistance must be measured when the relay is energized... Edit: Based on the link posted by Chris, there may be some issues with the electronics since the designers...

Check the PS magazine section if all else fails.

Closed contacts (relay energized) should give you a reading of 1/2 Ohm or less for a new relay. To help "burn off" some of the oxide on the contacts of the reverse polarity protection relay, turn on headlights and other electrical loads before flipping the master switch. Note: When removing...

The solenoid on the starter serves two functions, it engages the pinion gear and closes the contact that supplies battery voltage to the starter motor. If the solenoid is "bad", there is a good chance that the gears are worn, so remove the starter and check condition. You probably should remove...

It must be 28. (fraction) regardless of load, it's not called a regulator for nothing..:-)

The flame heater pump gets boosted fuel pressure from the gear pump on the IP.

So the CTIS must be in "highway" mode on side slopes....

Appreciate the pictures, I'll get back to you.