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Like I have posted before, the reverse polarity protection relay (the one with a diode in the coil circuit) is switched without a load the moment the master switch is turned on, which means that its contacts will build up an non-conducting oxide over time. Power relays are supposed to switch a...
Excellent final touch! Venting is important unless the box is filled with an inert gas...
It's funny how the manufacturer gets away with using "Radio Shack" parts when the box is welded or encapsulated.
You will need studs for the inner ones, so they need to be drilled out and tapped. Machine shop is probably the only option...
Personally I would not use WD40 as a penetrant, next time try GM Heat valve lubricant, CLP or Kroil.
I have concluded that "Premium tractor hydraulic fluid", sold at Carquest and NAPA stores will do the job. It has the equivalent viscosity of 10W engine oil...
Not so good, the gasket may be failing. The oil (to the filters) entrance port is right there. Re-torque the mounting bolts, clean the area and hope for the best.
Memphis has the gasket (#10889858).
I'm 17,000 lb plus "empty" also. Crane alone is about 4,000 lb. Being able to swing the boom in all directions makes a good counterbalance, it doesn't have to be in the "figure 4" config for driving.
Compare the xm757 8x8, it's 16,500, not bad for a 5-ton. :-)
You are welcome! I submitted material for an article on the starting system to MVM about a year ago and when they get it published, you can read all about it...probably more than you ever wanted to know about solenoids and related parts. :-)
The oil flows through the coil shown in the 3rd image above. It is surrounded by coolant and there should not be oil leaking via the bolts that hold the cover in place.
Have the crankcase oil analyzed to make sure you don't have coolant leaking into it.
It does, but because of the high current draw, an additional relay is used to to handle it.
Sometimes a "click" is caused by bad connections or a "low" battery...voltage drops when solenoid is energized. Check connections.
Connectingbar, keep it! It makes a wonderful project and should keep you busy for months. :-)
The starting system on the (an) engine is optimized for room temperature, so it makes good sense warming the engine and batteries before cranking it.
Depends on weight distribution. Don't put more than 1,000-1,500 more on the front axle or it becomes very hard to steer. I switched to 1100 tires and removed the front winch to help my situation and park the crane boom over the bed whenever possible.
1) Clean top of hydraulic head.
2) Clean top of hydraulic head.
3) Remove plunger bore screw.
4) Wipe surfaces clean.
5) Re-install and torque to 50 to 55 ft-lb.
The only muffler MVO I'm aware of for the multifuel engine is the muffler installed on the m656/xm757 series 8x8s in Germany to reduce "noise pollution". No adjustments needed or specified.
As mentioned above, the exhaust brake can easily build the pressure to above 35 psi or so, which may...
The intake manifold adapter is the same on the LDS and the non-turbo deuce engines.
Couldn't find the original photo, but compare the images below. Note the location of the waste gate.
Could be setting up for a runaway situation here, a combustible liquid in the air intake? The ether kit supplies a precisely metered amount of ether (gas) and is only to be used while cranking.
I have the system installed on my 8x8 (also multifuel engine) and would like to compare notes when you get started installing it.
The centrifugal pump is used in "HI" mode and looks a little different from mine, newer model perhaps.
Does you kit include a battery compartment warmer?
You will...
I have had my mil spec HIAB with two different beds for almost 15 years now and love the combination. It makes the truck so very much more useful (check hundreds of previous posts).
The first bed was home made with an aluminum deck and the current bed is a slightly modified pipeline (M756...
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