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Only one time during the trip when I was hauling the 9,500 lb trailer did I have trouble stopping, the car in front of me decided to to stop for a yellow traffic light instead of going thru, which I intended to do. Stopped the truck and trailer with a foot to spare.
This brings up a question...
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Andy, the butterfly valve with air cylinder was purchased used from a muffler shop. The controller is identical to the one used for the front wheel drive, an air switch. I also added an exhaust back pressure gauge.
As far as mods I have done over the years, here is a list:
Driven off the Camp...
The exhaust brake is simply a butterfly valve in the exhaust pipe. It is operated by an air cylinder or by vacuum bellows.
By closing the exhaust off, the pistons meet resistance on the exhaust stroke, which translates into braking power.
This braking power is proportional to the rpm, so using...
$3,500 sounds high.
The steel flat bed with uprights sounds homemade, perhaps the winch was added also.
As far as towing it, using a towbar shouldn't be a problem. For 30 miles at low speed your towing vehicle (deuce) should be able to handle it, IMHO.
Hope you recovery from the operation goes...
Thanks David, sent you an email.
Checked ball joints this morning. No change from yesterday. Added more penetrant.
This may take days....
Edit: After 24 hours, no change, added more penetrant.
If a vehicle isn't serviced imediately following a fording operation or a dip in the water, a lot of damage will result. For example, just driving in water deep enough to submerge the axles would require all the wheel bearings to be inspected. No other way to make sure the seals held up.
This subject has come up a number of times before on this and other forums.
I'd like to see some numbers, heat dissipating capaity, required brake pedal pressure etc. How large would the discs have to be to equal the drums in capacity (extended downhill braking without engine braking).
I can...
The M52A1 and M52A2 are listed in my 1977 TM 9-2320-211-10 as 18,560 lb net wo/w. Add payload and you get 43,560 for highway and 33,560 for cross country.
Add 714lb for front mounted winch.
I'm going to let the penetrants work on their own. I will report back tomorrow.
The torque required to continue turning was insignificantly less (?), perhaps 5 ft-lb or so.
Got a can of "Heat Valve Lube" from a GM dealer in Mt Airy, NC, today.
The front tie rod is on a bench indoors at this time, an 1/8" hole in each ball joint cap. CLP squirted into one and Heat Valve Lube into the other.
The torque required to turn the CLP ball was 60 ft-lb and the Heat Valve...
Tie rod end FSN 2530-045-1949. Okay David I'm considering finding an NOS one. Not a normally stocked item by most dealers, though.
EDIT: Since my manual is dated June 1969, the NSN for the tie rod end becomes NSN 2530-00-045-1949.
On the other hand, the acid approach may be a way to open the space between the ball and dry lube packing some....worth looking into, "the spray from God" huh.
I like the microscopic teflon dust in the CLP, it provides lubrication compatible with the Delrin.
If the "Heat Valve Lube" contains an acid, how is it neutralized in time? Wouldn't want it eating away at the ball once the rust is gone.
Vinegar is a good rust remover because it's a mild acid...
A lot of (most?) modern designs are compromises, I think that a lot of 60's designs still are state of the art. Much was designed and built with money as no object.
I appreciate your feedback guys, that's how these problems are solved.
I have my doubts about grease doing anything at all.
Look at the images below, the part of the ball becoming exposed when it's exercised is free of rust. That's how good the seal is along the lower edge (top edge in that image). Rust above, no rust below after 37 years. A hermetic seal couldn't...
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