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First confirm the readings with a DVM across the batteries. Sounds like a regulator problem.

Check this for comparative information. http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=1899&highlight=ursa

Using my trusty torque wrench on the ball/stud shows that it takes about 70 ft-lb to start it turning in its socket. There are 11 "sealed for life" ball/stud joints in the steering linkages. They are now swimming in CLP Break Free. Ideally, the ball should move without friction and be tight.

The TM for the MX-7778/GRC is TM 11-5915-223-12. MX-7777 is without mounting feet, MX-7778 is complete. The cable you'll need is the CX-10613/VRC.

This is how I work the ball joints. They only loosen up so much and then that's it, still pretty firm, but maybe that's the way it's designed to be. Spec on how many ft-lb of torque should be required to turn the balls in their sockets would be nice....

Received the head lamp retaining rings today. Thanks Lance, just what the doctor ordered. Did a test install and it works great!

With the rear axles "free'd up" for highway driving, the front wheel drive comes in very handy, perhaps more often than you'd think.

Thought it would be interesting to see actual photos from this time period in order to put some MV colors in perspective. This image is a slide picture taken by yours truly in 1971 in Korea. Note how dark the M151 is. Please post other pictures that you may have. I'll try to locate more of my own.

Removed the forward drag link today. The ball joints of it and the rear tie rod are now soaking in CLP "Break Free". The jam-nut-impact-wrench idea didn't work very well, couldn't get the nuts tight enough and the turning action of the impact wasn't right for this.

Kenny, did you install it yet?

This kind of locking nut has a limited number of on-off cycles. You may think about replacing them if they don't lock.

It may be a good idea to bring a spare tire and means to change a flat.

Buy separately. Hewitt Industries has high quality pyro instruments. The boost gauge can be as simple as an industrial pressure gauge (about 0-20 psi).

When I visited Wayne Harris earlier this year in Georgia, he had a pile of shocks, all metal in his yard.

Boots? Yes, about the same size, perhaps a bit smaller and four of them, I know the deuce is only ten feet away, but I haven't measured them. They are all punctured and need to be replaced. The power steering pump is gear driven in front of the IP. Need to get smaller profile nuts for the...

Welcome to the 5-ton club! From a new member, that is. Incidentally, the 5th wheel I'll be using came from an M52.... What's with the light green color of these trucks?

Removed the second axle tie rod a little while ago. Will put a couple of jam nuts on the studs for turning with impact if nothing else works, but they will get exercised. With plastic and fiber inside, heating is out. The hub turns with finger pressure, which is nice.

Not making a heck of a lot of progress here, the tie rod ends have been soaking off and on for a week almost. They have the stud up and the ball cavity down for supposedly easy soaking, but PB blaster hasn't done much at all. Takes about 150 ft-lb of torque to turn the tie rods using a pipe...

Yes Jed, a color closer to the one shown here in this image.

What gauge wire? If it's skinny, then it's probably like Kenny says, for a charger, if it's heavy it's providing power for something.