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I don't have a problem using split ring rims as on military trucks. I like not having machines to break down the tire for flat repair. Caution is always in order when reinflating after repair. Have the right tools for the job. The rest is your sweat equity.
Before you get too radical, try soaking with penetrating oil for several days. You aren't in a big hurry to fix a daily driver. Use a 3/4" breaker bar after the long soaking. I wouldn't use any extreme heat unless ALL else fails.
Good luck, looks like a good prospect.
The adjustable fingers are on a Long type pressure plate. They are just to adjust for equal throwout bearing contact. Like was said, new clutch assembly time.
Those engines will run on low octane fuel just fine. Avoid ethanol in the fuel unless you drive it enough to use up a tank full every few days. I'm not sure of that time frame.
I would make them in the interest of saving ordering time and I am cash challenged. One can use grocery bags with a coat of gasket dressing, not rtv. For thicker material, get a roll of gasket material from auto parts store.
I used biocide in my tractor. I still had to drain the tank, clean the strainer. I used the contaminated fuel for brush control. I treated fuel drum, all seems ok. Did put a new fuel filter on the tractor.
That was a difficult job. I have to hand it to Wes. He has some real crap to repair and he is pretty upbeat about it. The rust alone would make me throw wrenches across the shop in my younger years.
Hiring out repairs is well and good IF the job is done correctly. I wouldn't think much expertise is out there for repairs on these trucks. So many resources are out there (and on this forum) so to educate yourself . The job will turn out better in most cases because you care about getting it...
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