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Crank over for 20/30 sec. at a time with a pause in between so to not overheat the starter. Once fuel flows steadily close the valve and repeat couple more times to charge the IP. Plug pink wire back in hold pedal at half way and crank until it starts. Tom

Remove the Pink wire on the IP. Open bleed screw on the filter and crank engine to ensure fuel delivery. If you have fuel and your glow plugs check out bleed the system. My guess is it lost prime. Tom

9 lbs. is normal for a stock pump and the system. Your problem is elsewhere. Tom

Everyone has there favorites. It's like a Dodge, Ford, Chevy conversation. I have used Power Service for over 40 years and works for me. 911, "Red bottle" is only used once the fuel has gelled. Power service Fuel Supplement, "White bottle" is used at every fill up to prevent gelling. The other...

I can see what looks like one of the three inch pieces below the hinge On the cab tub. Also one on the top of door shell to contact the tub below windshield. Can't see the third one. Tom

Don't know if this helps, But from memory I know there is a 3" rubber horizontal on the front door Shell to contact the cab tub right below the windshield. I think one goes opposite on the rear of door at the top of the cab tub. Or they go at each hinge? Tom

Rebuilt Gen 1 Alt. today, All is well again. Thanks Tow4 for the kit's. Finally got to use one. Tom

Check your motor mounts especially the right side. I'm sure you'll find there shot and the engine brackets are touching the cross member. That sets up all kinds of noises and vibrations. Tom

I installed Door Drip rails from LMC after I changed the door seals. Made a huge difference when opening the door in foul weather. Most all civilian trucks came with them as part of a option package. I scuffed up the chrome and painted OD. You can barely see them in the picture. Tom

Yup. As they said. Heads need to come off, get checked and new gaskets. Tom

LMC Truck, as well as many aftermarket truck parts places Have the gasket. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=203 Classic Ind. out your way will Have also. Tom

It's really hard to see, for me anyway. The right picture does look like it would face the oil supply. Agree with your thinking about the gap facing the oil. Double lip deals can be hard at time to figure orientation. Tom

You do know that Gen 1 and Gen 2 lights use two different bulb numbers. FIY Tom

The direct drive starters are more robust for sure. They both have there pro's and con's. I have replaced a couple of armatures and the problem comes back after a while. A reputable auto electric repair shop can check your Armature for you. Most intermittent starter problems can be traced to...

The problem with the gear drive starters and even the Gov. issue Japan Delco's is the Armature burns out a segment. Starter will work fine until the armature stops with a brush over the bad commutater segment. Then the bendix hangs in the flywheel Instead of loosening the starter use a 15/16...

Because there not showing military I would guess. There listing civilian trucks. Doesn't matter same gasket anyway. Tom

The pressure plate wore out at the finger pivots. It needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Tom

Sounds like a good plan, but I would be cautious about putting the column in a bind And stressing it to the point where the jacket(tube) or shaft can fail. Ideally when you fasten the column to the dash you do so with it being "neutral" I have seen a few columns/shafts broken from being out of...

It's not uncommon for the studs to back out. You can pick up new ones at Napa,CARQUEST or the like. Then reinstall the studs using the double nut method. After that reinstall the diff. Tom

I'm going to say it is a A1 with the early dash and swinging mud flaps. Newer tail lights though. Definitely been repowered as my A1 is. Look for rebuild tags on the Trans.,T-case, and diff's. If there, the dates will probably match or be close to the engine date. Tom