Search results

You could get a different solar charge controller and use the existing panels.

I have the other kind, assumed it was a bolt-in.

Excluding the gasser front crossmmember which has to be cut out to install the multi, aren't both of the multi crossmembers removable?

Is it possible to pull the engine without first removing the front crossmmeber? I assumed that it had to go but am curious if it is possible.

I believe that this is how some of the Hunter diesel space heaters work; electric vaporizer. You could research the vapor pressure of each to get an idea of the difference but it seems like a sketchy plan unless you have the correct infrastructure.

Knipco et al. heaters burn a mist/vapor of kerosene. Seems like it could end badly.

How, if at all, does the weather affect the emulsion?

I trust the folks who designed and built these turbos far more than anecdotal suggestions from the internet. The manual (Schwitzer 4 series published in 1980) does not indicate that a re-balancing after a rebuild is required. Based on what I have been able to research, the individual...

I have read and reread the rebuild manuals for the Schwitzer turbos and I can't find anything suggesting even re-assembling the compressor clocked to the turbine in the original position. The rebuild manuals do not indicate that re-balancing is needed. They are balanced sufficiently as...

Not 100% sure but I think that you still gotta pull a lot of latent heat out for the phase change from liquid to solid once you hit the theoretical freezing point. I wouldn't worry.

There is some novelty to the whistle but it got old pretty fast. No offense, but how is your hearing? After 20 years, maybe you can't hear it. Either way, I'd keep the D. This way you have the ability to swap back if you want.

I have several spare military senior bypass filters. Kinda wondering about installing one on my multi (purely out of boredom and feature creep). The wix 51503 is rated at 10 micron nominal so it is a step above the full flow spin-on filters. Concerned about the difficulty to remove one of the...

Keep the D for when you get tired of the C (it will happen eventually).

List of heater cores by dimensions: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCAQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.meicorporation.com%2Fpdfs%2FHeaterCores09.pdf&ei=0P8HVLzQGJWtyASo_4LgBQ&usg=AFQjCNF-5kB0qxp78TH_a4vORAeYaHJlRA&sig2=5TFfouAm3E1g_BV1Oyxj9A&bvm=bv.74649129,d.aWw

Lock ring; not split rim.

I appreciate what you are trying to do but isn't what you are trying to do the same as what is already provided by the anti drainback filter? What would the opening pressure of the anti drainback be?

There is no evidence that this was a design intent. Remember, both the oil cooler and filters have bypass valves to deal with cold viscous oil. It isn't necessary for the oil trapped to drain and be heated.

Are you sure that you really need or want a 15psi valve?

How about using a torque limiter instead of the shear pin: http://www.zero-max.com/overload-safety-devices-with-torque-limiters-c-25-l-en.html We had similar devices on farm equipment to prevent damage when things jammed up.

Pics of the 400 Reo rocker arm with oil squirter.