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Man... Id skip all of the above and just get a 700R4... its so much easier. Or convert the L480 over to manual... But I dont see the point as it would be more annoying to drive in the end.

Jim are you cloneing those things? LOL

3/4" is reasonable... I rebuilt my whole rear axle... then I had to go back and change the seals 2X on the passenger rear of my truck, then went back a third time and ended up changing the bearings (which were installed new when it was rebuilt)... That fixed the issue. I couldnt tell you why...

The raised seal lip should ride aganst the bearing race... Or you could say the flat side faces outward... Silicone works well in place of the cork, some feel it works better... You can also buy a set of small block valve cover gaskets and cut your own keyway seals, depending shipping cost this...

Here are the parts... http://www.odiron.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=4_48&products_id=626 TM 9-2320-209-20-2-2... page 14-46 (or 346 via Acrobat).... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=93 Pretty easy job compaired to the front axle...

The reg can be changed... Search for LMC Truck, they will have everything you need.

Specs totally depend on the pump... A VTM can range from .7 to 7GPM flow to 700-3000 PSI, it just depends on the model. Thus far I have seen 4 diffrently spec'ed pumps used on various 5 tons which avrage around 4gpm / 1400 PSI. If you try to put one with higher flow PSI it sounds like the gear's...

Piviot on the tie rod is ok as long as its STIFF... if its flopping around easily its time to replace them. By all means though, grease the front end!!!!

It should be plumb... You window stops can be adjusted to some extent to help the window stop "squarely" If that doesnt help you prolly need new window channels, but then again so does almost every deuce on the road. I have door kits in the store for replacing the runs and weather stripping if...

If it IS comming out of the bell housing its rear main time... Not a heap of fun but not so bad ether. Consider your options as far as clutch, seals, etc while your doing it.

Not to knock BW in any way but the LDS pump will not supply enough flow or PSI to power a winch. You would need a pto pump to run something like that. You would also want to disconnect it, if not you would run constant heat / psi on the system while robbing HP. . .

If you have to rev it after start up your more than likely in need of new battries .

A 24V 20,000lb winch would cost you far more than picking up a stock PTO set up including, shipping and rebuilding. . . its possiable. . . but why?

Got mine from Sermis... See if he has any left...

Nope... but I'll discuss ammo!!!!

Jody P, Welcome to SS… Here are a few links to guys running my wheels / tires... There are several more members whom have them so there might be another thread or two floating around with them. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=20431&highlight=shoes...

Filter filter and then filter again... I run 80/20 synthetic (80 is oil).... Get a bypass filter assy from napa and pump it through at a low PSI... This will get you down to about 5M... I do this 2X once pumping into my collection tank and then while pumping out into my trucks... Oil sampling...

Its a pretty easy fix... email me or have him email me... sales@odiron.com

I run synthetic in everything on my deuce...

M54 at 80mph... Another plus to the LDS (or LDT for that matter) you can bolt an automatic transmission right up to them, which is exactly what they do for the top end speed... 80 isnt bad in a MV... Though I generally run it around 75 MPH; my deuce tops out at 86 with the stock drive train and...