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It wouldn't shock me if the pump had some issues. It was clear the shaft was painted over and then the pump used so that paint may be in the seals causing a leak. New pump is on order. Will try to rebuild this one too, looks like there is a retaining circlip or similar on the bottom.
So with a vented cap on the pump, what's to stop the spare tire cylinder from leaking into the reservoir due to gravity?
Edit: looks like as long as there is no air leak and the reservoir level remains above the return port, it can't.
Trying to sort out my hydraulic system. Took out the air/oil pump and removed all the lines.
Still have issues with hand pump overflowing, have a NOS one coming and I'll try rebuilding the one I have too.
Here is the vented cap that's needed if you delete the air/oil system
Air over oil is gone, totally removed from the system.
The cab lock engages, but it takes those ~30-40 pumps to draw down the cab cylinder until it hits a "hard stop" where the pump handle doesn't want to move and the cylinder is at it's retracted limit. No sponginess in the pump handle present.
Got my vented pump cap. Removed all air lift and air/oil lines. Also took the safety valves out of the spare tire cylinder as I occasionally have it lock up.
Also checked out the manifold orifices and valves, all in great shape. All filter checked and clear as well.
Having an issue with...
Just cap off the two hydraulic lines going to/from the kneeling cylinders on the backside of the manifold.
Oh, and supposedly unbolting the cylinders is a compete pain. Probably not worth the effort.
Good to know! Will try out the new lbcd and see if that changes things. It's also got 4x generic group 24(?) batteries currently so I'm not sure their performance
Awesome, that's the place I found.
I have the 100amp alternator and it will not run (orange flashing) while the intake heater is on. Boy does that thing draw some power. May be over the safe limit for mine, your 260 would likely fair far better with no lbcd
Yeah I saw that. The back has no discoloration and the internal threads look good. I'm sure I could spend the time to fix it up but juice worth the squeeze for old caps... probably not. I see a whole load of them for sale from a vendor on eBay, although they don't look as nice condition as the...
Well that's a strange stepped stud, hard to tell but looks like there might be a bevel washer where that nut came out. Looks like the nut had to be epoxied while the stud was installed as well.
Checked some voltages:
Battery voltage: 12.48-12.51 for all 4
Ignition on voltage - at batteries: 12.33V
Cranking voltage min - at batteries: 10.13V
At terminal under PDP and at ABS ecm between both +12v and both ground wires mirrored the voltages at PDP
Ignition on: 11.34V
Cranking voltage...
Well checked under the PDP and found a lot of power distribution stud nuts finger tight. Also some corrosion to clean off. Found paint under the chassis ground stud as well. Fixed everything but still same situation with ABS. The "ignition voltage" is still reading under the "battery voltage"...
Using the stock pump, waiting on a vented pump cap to arrive.
Nice solution on the mount. I'm going to see if I can add the plate that went over the air/oil pump back on. Would give lots of protection and I like using it as a step :)
I did that the other day, although I just tried to install it as fast as possible to save as much coolant as I could....works okay, was only a few seconds but you're right it comes out real fast!
Cut some isolaters for the box to frame interface from HDPE. Hopefully box to be mounted this week.
Removed the air over oil pump and about 8 hydraulic lines I won't need (suspension cylinders, feed and return from aoo pump). Did have some issues with the spare tire cylinder locking up but...
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