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Yep saw your video, nicely done.
Looks like 35 in^3 is the usable volume of the stock pump:
Cab lift 2x 1"dia x 16(max)" stroke
Tire lift 1"dia x 18(max)" stroke
(16*2+18)*pi*0.5^2 = 39.3 in^3 needed for both at full extension
The actual stroke is a little less that then values above but I...
I've seen a people do this a little but not too much quantitative info. Can the manual pump supply enough fluid with its tiny reservoir for both the cab raise and tire lower?
Just from glancing at the volume, seems like it would run out of fluid with just one of these operations-if it could...
Oh for sure, but I'm going to see where the tires actually end up when crossed up and with the load I have. Then will adjust as needed. With a 5 spring leaf pack I may never flex enough...although spring rates on this bogie suspension aren't as simple a calculation as on the single rear wheel...
Bump stop is 7.5" away, box will be 8.75" away from tire. I'm going to see what kind of flex I can get under testing once I get some more weight on it. I will have the option to raise the box (but want to avoid that due to cg), I also have significant amount of material I can remove from the...
I think I'll be okay, I have the frame doubler unlike that 1088. I will have ~2" of clearance after bump stop contact. If really crossed up it could get close though. Do you have a measumet from top of your tire to the box? Any issues with rubbing?
Mounting plates for the box are basically done. 2" angle 3/16" thickness Corten steel.
Painted with rustoleum oil gloss black. Takes a while to dry but seems pretty durable.
The box has 20 c channels I will be tying into. I've decided I will just bolt the frame and box together, with some...
So I tried the MWME boots for the alignment rods and they were just far too small to work. I ended up ordering the ones from MTP drivetrain and the boots fit great. They have a slick install tool but for the boots close to the frame the tool is too long. I ended up making a short sleeve and that...
Did some testing with the Eco hubs today, truck wouldn't get above 170 even pulling a big hill for a few minutes (and then cooled down on the decent). Temp was 45 outside. Hill was steep enough 330hp rating and no load couldn't maintain 55. Time to order some thermostats. Also need to install...
Yep, I've got to test the V=IR, but under load. This truck has me buying more and more tools. I'll have to see if my old oscilloscope can record with a starter trigger.
Checked resistance to all 4 modulators from the connectors at ABS, all right at 5.1-5.3 ohm so all in spec (4-9 ohm)
Checked resistance to ground from both pins, both at 0.2, but need to check voltage under load still.
Not sure there actually is a "condition" just that the most voltage sag will be during cranking. It has 4 fresh batteries, all measuring well voltage wise. Truck cranks quickly. Obviously that's not an all-inclusive test of battery, grounds, etc. I'll look into this as well though.
Yeah I looked at that, but since it only popped up during cranking (low voltage condition) I wasn't giving it much trust. There was no memorized or active flag either. Considering I don't have any other things to test though, it's next on my list
Took it out and all speed sensors working fine. No codes except right after cranking the engine I got a fault code that then went away. I'm guessing just from the voltage drop, but maybe not?
I did try engaging the ABS on some gravel but I was only going about 10 mph or so so maybe it's below...
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