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I believe that the speed switch only enables the field flash. Once a set rpm is reached the starter is disabled and the flash is enabled, the start switch needs to be held in the start position to flash. So the answer would be as long as the operator is holding the switch. I have seen them take...

Follow F1 and F2 from the main generator head. It should go to some form of regulator and there should be something going back to battery (through some form of switch) as modified as your set is its gonna be alot of reverse engineering. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

If i had to guess (and this is a generator physics guess), reconnection switch or winding failure. Other place check is meyer it before the overcurrent protection device (output breaker or contactor) Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

In theroy no self bond (unless it is run through a transformer and then is a separately derived system) The ground is "a low impedance path back to the source to facilitate the operation of the over current protective device" the neutral can do the same thing (all depends on whats shorted)...

For 500 even if the gen head is totally fried you can flip the engine. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

I cheated and used my boroscope, it has a detachable screen. Also remember that the IP moves at half the speed of the flywheel. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Its on the flywheel. Look for an inspection hole on the left (not starter) side Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Dirt dobbers. Natures asshole. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Its one of those things, the most seamingly mundane thing where you can get the worst shock. Mine was of all things changing of a lightbulb. A small stress fracture in the glass caused it to explode in my hand and resulted in 600 volts across the chest (Output of a HID ballast). long story...

Ground ground ground! Hard to say what is leaking or where your stray is. But ground it and see if it goes away Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

I used an electronic actuator and frequency sensor with my plc to adjust frequency. Yes depending on the load the engine speed will droop. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

24 volt + to the solenoid (trigger wire) on the starter should make the starter run Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

One site we used to take care of had a generator for backup. One hurricane they flooded so bad that the panel buss bar was about 1/4 inch from the water. That was not a fun shutdown. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

That would be a good indicator of overload Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Can also be a bad breaker, had a couple of them. Hard to say what it is since the controls have been altered Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Any time. Good luck and feel free to ask away Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

If there is still 24v and it stalled its a fuel loss issue. Primer only works if there is an ether bottle present Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

The clicking will slow when fuel pressure builds. Do the same thing with battle short on. If it still looses 24v than we need to look into the controls Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Lets try this. Were going to see if the controls are shutting it off or if it is starving for fuel. Meter the electrical connection point at the top of the fuel injection pump. If it stalls and there is still 24v, its not getting fuel. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Thermalwatt converter should be only instrumtation. With the set in run(doesnt have to be running) and battle short on do you hear the pumps clicking? And if so how fast? Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk