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So, I've been running G177 1100x20" tires since just before the Ga Fall Rally. I had the tires there and they did very well off road. On road, they bounce a bit at about 30-40mph, but steer like the front end is on snot. Oddly, it tracks very precisely now, almost twitchy. There may be a...

Dan, I know this problem. If you guys are fabbing things, I would suggest go with the 2nd fuel tank (I have this and it's actually nice to have) and also go with a shop fabbed tool box like that link above shows. Not too hard. Mostly a few bends and some welds. Tricky bit is laying it out to...

Have you looked at McMaster Carr or a similar industrial supply house?

The trick is getting something that is mechanically inside the vehicle and not on the tail gate, but accesible from some places other than climbing through from inside. I suspect that some sprung cable type latches would also work and would be simple in that they could be manual or solenoid...

I did specify that it should NOT look like a poor bodge. Padlock hasps would look like a poor bodge. At this point I'm contemplating a pair of 24VDC Solenoid latches that can be thrown from the driver's area and which secure the tail gate and slant back. Have those throw a pair of catches that...

Yep, I know about the key locks for the doors from Kascar. Security of the vehicle is best accomplished by a key switch/battery lockout/steering wheel lock. Security of it's contents when running around in the vehicle....that's tougher as the tailgate has ZERO security on it by default. Even...

So, any answers to my question?

Hmm, I flipped my hubs several years ago and I have a good pair of 700 mile trips on me to Pa and back. This past summer when I mounted up the g177s I serviced all 6 stations and noticed nothing odd or amiss on the bearings or races.

So, in working on this friend's slantback, we've been discussing how to secure it. Key Switch is in hand for install. I've suggested he purchase a battery cut out switch. We've discussed locking door latches. That still leaves the slantback hatch and tailgate. What's the ways folks have...

Put em on a cart, wire them up series parallel to get enough juice.

Ooh, they're laying pipe in my neighborhood, I might be able to get it from them...Need to stop and see if they are and if it's waste or to be reused.

Isn't there a T.M. on Rigging? This should go in there.

Hmm, it is. I've been meaning to find some good 4x4s and 6x6s, perhaps RR Ties or pressure treated wood and cut them into manageable lengths to be able to make useful cribbing where jack stands are less ideal or tall enough. I figure Drill holes in the end and thread a length of thick rope in...

Hmmmmm, Scammel…..

I kept my chains tensioned with heavy Rubber bungee cords across the outside of the tire. That worked fine around Atlanta 3 years ago when we had snow and ice.

Robb, that's just distracting. What could one possibly learn from that video other than the fact that pink hair can be quite interesting?

Tread lightly yes. But if having chains is a difference in traction or sitting there and spinning and digging in deeper, what precisely is the difference?

I always figured hanging a deuce bed on a bolster trailer would work pretty well. Of course, I rebuilt an equipment trailer for my deuce to use to tow my WWII Dingo upon. New electrics, new brakes and some other work has worked well. I do need to make more mods to it to make it a bit more...

I would strongly suggest you go with Rayzer's design schematic. 1. It allows flexibility of power use and distribution. 2. It's inherently safe. An inverter providing power to the panel with no transfer switch will cause a back feed and that will mean that the power inlet will be hot. This...

Hah, I was actually able to just reach the right rear unit from the engine bay. I had heard from another HMMWV owner how hard those were to reach. Working on British armor has helped me hone some contortionist skills.