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I have a local guy custom make the covers, they are made out of a real nice thicker naugahyde. He can make a set front and rear for $650.00 plus shipping. David

I don't know...I have never used CARC?

Thank you all!

Paint Hi Joe, I have been using the GILLESPIE NON ACRYLIC ALKYD ENAMEL from RAPCO for several years. On the plus side it's easy to use and clean up, and has a nice flat sheen. You can spray it on as fast as you can move around the truck and dries to the touch in about an hour and overnight to...

Few more.... enjoy..:beer:

Newly finished M1009 project. Check it out. :)

Thanks, I was thinking it was a air in the fuel issue but wanted to hear from someone else. The truck had a new fuel tank installed and external electric fuel pump which is mounted next to the fuel tank and seems to work ( I hear it running anyway) I am going to replace the stock fuel filter...

Weird starting problem with my M1008. It only happens after the truck sits for a week or so without running. A side note.. (the high idle solenoid is not hooked up and neither is it working correctly as it sticks open when the green wire is conected) What happens is the truck takes a very long...

Dynomax Super Turbo's sound good with a little deeper pop to the exhaust from idle up to speed. Flowmasters sound a little to "loose" for me. I have had both on trucks, and like the Dynomax "turbo" style. David

Good info thanks!! David

Roger that. I am first going to rebuild both alts. David

Yes, thanks I have thought of that and may do it after I exhaust all efforts to solve the problem. David

Yep, DH I think you and Joe are correct. David

The plug you are talking about is the 2 wire plug on the back of of the Alts. The red wire is hot 12v and the brown wire is the exciter wire that is connected to your Gen light in the dash. What I am interested in is what Joe said the other day...can a bad Alt. pull a draw with the key off...

I think you are on to something...because the test light didn't come on when I tested the rear battery. Should I test the front battery Neg - post/cable and if the light comes on go through the fuses again?

Yes, both batteries are fully charged and load tested. I will check the test light from the front battery neg- post to neg- cable. Thanks.

Ok, thanks, I will try again with it set to amps. Also, when hooking up the batts again this time no sparks of any kind. David

Ok, tested per above and this is what I got: test light from - neg to +pos on rear battery the light came on (test) test light from pos+ battery cable to Pos + post of rear battery no light Voltmeter from Pos+ battery cable to Pos+ post = 12.82v (key off not running) with voltmeter...

Ok, thanks. So disconnect thet rear pos + and test that battery with the test light/volt meter? To check for draw? Could I then remove fuses to test the circuits?

Hey Joe, I was hoping that you would chime in. the funny thing is that the truck sat around for weeks then in one night the batteries were dead? So am I correct in thinking that there is a draw on the system when hooked up because of the sparks when hooking up the battery cables correctly...