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Got my new gasket set, and the ARP stud kit!!!!!! Starting too reassemble everything now! Since I have the engine tore apart I took out trans to install a 700r4, also got the tv cable, tv bracket, and rod, will be easy too install with the intake off!

No you don't need the wires hooked up for the truck too work, the two wires on top are for the "water in fuel light", other wire is for the fuel heater. You can find the housings on ebay or go with a spin, I believe part #'s or in the sticky section.

That will be good. I need to get one also, thanks for reminding me!

I'm in the process of doing my swap right now. Will start a new thread with pics soon. TCC lockup is a must, it keeps the torque converter about 100 degrees cooler in 4th gear, (no slip). The wiring is very simple only takes 15 minutes to change.

235 x 85 x 16=31.73 x 9.25 x 16............speed=46.57/2250......51.75/2500.......56.92/2750 315 x 70 x 17=34.36 x 12.4 x 17............speed=50.43/2250......56.04/2500.......61.64/2750

an np208 that was behind a turbo 350 will bolt right up too the 700r4 just make sure you get the adapter with it. They still make the tv cable just bought it from auto zoned, and the rod the connects too the cable I just bought from the chevy dealer, they don't make the bracket anymore though...

Ok good news head is not cracked!!!!!!!!!! My question though is should I reuse the old head bolts, buy new ones (found them for $40) or install studs? What do you guys think? I will most likely buy new bolts only $40, but should I spend $150 and go studs? Would studs be worth it?

Fixing the wobble is pretty easy, just take your time. I did mine last year. Buy the compression tool for the column, makes taking the clip thats holds everything together off a lot easier.

Ya that's what I was told after I put box back together, It probably doesn't help that I am color blind, they all looked the same to me. As far as the big end cap I used my press and a large socket to push it back on and then install the snap ring. Cleaning was pretty easy, I used my parts...

no. I already have it back together. Appears to be operating correctly.

Tore apart the box again and reinstalled the seals correctly, I now have no leaks!

I got the engine tore apart today, things not looking so good, might be a cracked head. I will find out tomorrow when I take it too the machine shop. Here are some pics.

look on cracklist, I see 700r4 on there for $100-200 all day long. There cheap to build up also, with a few simple upgrades they can handle 300-400 H.P. I just got 2 of them for free will be installing them in mine.

rnd-motorsports: Ya I think I have both seals going wrong way. dstang97: If I can't get this working tomorrow I will pm you.

I rebuilt my steering box, instructions were very vague with the rebuild kit, but I still managed to figure everything out. This is my first one I have ever rebuilt, the problem I am having is when I turn the wheel too the left fluid sprays out of the bottom around the steering shaft, when I...

Well I have thought about it for a while and I think I installed those two seals upside down..........oh well.

Ok got the pump rebuilt and installed in truck, I am having an issue though maybe someone knows, When I turn wheel too right full lock no problems but when I turn wheel to full lock left it starts spraying fluid out bottom side of box out the steering shaft, did I install steering shaft seals...

:ditto: Yup mine clunks from time to time. sometimes will even jump and hit the floor, I have bad trans/transfer case mount bushings.

Well when it rains it pours, I drove the wifes 1008 to work the next day and on the way home the steering box finally took a dump. started the rebuild today, will get pics up tomorrow. Once that is back on truck and working correctly I will move on to that head gasket. Found steering rebuild...

just my opinion but I wouldn't drive it if it where my truck and leaking any fluids, what happens if it blows completely out and you lose all your oil in a matter of minutes, then what.