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Use a needle torque wrench, measure the amount of torque it takes too start too turn the tire before you loosen nut (put socket/wrench on pinion nut start turn wrench, measure torque), usually its between 5-15 ft. lbs. When you tighten the bolt back down use that measurement so you don't...

ya I have seen those two sites, I have them book marked. Was hoping for military parts though, there already painted green/camo.

Looking for body panels for my 2 m1008's, fenders, doors, a hood, box, any salvage yards left in Michigan?

I have heard of guys putting these on a 6.2 but not sure if there a direct bolt up or need some machine work? I want too increase the power, If I do this I probably will install marine injectors, turbo, girdle, arp studs, and fire ring the head. Not sure if I want too go this route anyway.

6.5 L DB2 MARINE Fuel Injection Pump, Will this pump work in a 6.2? would this even be recommended? Reason I ask my IP is starting to go, I can get the marine IP for not much more than a 6.2 IP.

joho: I'm having a similar problem along with gen 2 light flickering, got too be a short under dash because my volts don't drop, so if your volts aren't dropping when light flickers then should be a short, not glow plugs energizing.

What does this have too do with his problem!?!

Yup! My 1008 uses 2 gallons of fuel one way to work, and I have too fuel up every 4 days, after idling for 4 8 hr nights I lost one days worth of driving that's how I figured out how much I used, did the math when I fueled the truck comparing my lost mileage to how much fuel I put in.

Ya and the haynes manual says not too rebuild the transmission either, take it too a transmission shop.............boy were they wrong, was very easy even for my first one. I find that it says that for a lot of things on a vehicle.............again there way off!

I had mine idle for about 8 hrs several nights in a row, because the glow plugs failed, it was 10-20 below zero and only vehicle I had too go too work, used about 1.25 gallons of diesel every 8 hrs.

:ditto:197thhhc here's part number AC40 (stock) - For a more dependable starting system, update your starter system with the Doghead Relay upgrade. This replaces the subpar relay with a heavy duty relay. It will save your starter from burning up. NAPA# SME 7018601.

sounds like relay under dash is going bad, its located right of steering column under dash, will have four large wires going to it, I don't know the napa part number for the new relay.

What do you me it won't start e.g. it won't crank or it cranks but won't fire? If it cranks but won't fire check glow plugs, make sure there working. Check for loose wires, broken wires etc. at the Injection pump. Then check to make sure your getting fuel, maybe a clogged fuel filter. Check...

I wouldn't mess with the 3.9, will definitely cost more in the long run than the 5.9.

Its not illegal if you don't tell anybody!:doh:

the chevy that we did the swap in was a gasser, don't know how many miles were on it was not the original odometer and he was not the original owner. okay I was off on my power numbers Stock HP Ratings: 94-95 Auto: 160hp 94-95 Manual: 175hp 96-98 Auto: 180hp 96-98 Manual: 215hp

I think you guys need too think outside the box here. I have never done this for myself, I have however helped a friend do a complete swap in his 79 chevy, he found a 95 cummins truck that had been rolled for $2500 after all the extra parts, running around and fabrication the total came to...

The cast iron 4 spd "SM465"

If you do the labor and fabrication yourself, that's free. Find a wrecked 94-98 dodge for 2000-3000 that has all its parts, vwhaaallaaa! Reason for year of dodge, because it has a p-pump, and a stronger trans "47rh" or a "47re" than there earlier cummins.

Got everything back together, top it off with fluid, did a test drive. Works perfectly now, no loud noises, engages/disengages smoothly:jumpin:! I don't know why but at least I didn't have too buy a new one, that would have been $450.