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Huh?

I'm glad I could help.

Could be a discontinued number.

Erik's Military Surplus has them: http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/pabrhale25an.html

I Goggled that number twice and added a 00 first time and a 01 the second time after the 2540. If it's an NSN, you don't have enough digits. Even with me inserting what I thought to be right, brought up nothing. Look at your source for that number again.

Battlecr and MarcusOReallyus: Not to change the subject or jack the thread, I also "chewed the same dirt" as was also a participant in the Reforger '77 exercises. I was stationed at H.D. Smith Barracks, Baumholder, "West" Germany in the 8th Division 3/16th Field Arty.

Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo, whatever is cheaper at the time. I wouldn't think there is too much difference between the two.

I'd like the 3" to 80136. Thanks!

Nice wiring job Dipstick, that's the way to do it. Take that bracket assembly to a machine shop and have them put it in their blast cabinet, prime and paint to match. By the way, Kyle posted his question almost 5 years ago, and he doesn't even need to display a plate.

Note to self: Be sure and turn off heater blower motor when shutting down truck. One could always install a relay connected to the power switch to disable accessories when the engine is shut down. Just a thought.

I believe the horn is always hot as power for it comes right off the starter solenoid, wire #10 I believe.

Chock block stowage? I see there is a chain in the photo, where does it go? Maybe to secure the chocks to the truck? This looks like a local modification, it's not something you'll see on alot of trucks.

A little search and I found Erik's has what you need. Ouch, I didn't see the price of this stuff! $2.00 an inch! http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/heairindufor.html

Heck, a 10K Deuce winch and accesories weighs 530#.

Be sure and let us know how that works out for you. Did you take any photos of your work?

A friend of mine got caught in the carpool lane with a mannequin as his passenger. After the citation was written, he asked the officer how did he know the "girl" wasn't for real at 70 mph? The officer responded, "I've watched you go by here for a few days now, you really should change her...

I totally understood it wasn't the gauge, but wanted to throw that tid-bit into the thread for others. You are correct about the oil pressure safety switch. Good luck in your repairs, there is alot of talent in these genset threads, they'll get you going.

I understand by the OP's text, he does not have any oil movement at all. However, just for the record, my 003A oil pressure guage did not work when I first brought her home. I bought an identical oil pressure gauge from Saturn, and she works fine.

If you want to keep it looking original, use the Mil-Spec stuff. I have never been a fan of "suitcase" connectors on vehicles. They seem to cause more problems than you are trying to solve by using them. Butt splices are just OK, better when you heat shrink over them. Solder and shrink is...

Some folks think putting the core in the cab works better than on the fender. Mine is on the fender and will drive you out of the cab, once the motor gets to temp. I don't find it any more difficult to PM or service the engine, but I have spin-on oil filters. I think location is just a matter of...