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Looks like a good unit. As stated above usually the transducer has failed for the hertz gauge. I would personally just use a hand held meter or kill-a-watt meter to watch the hertz. Carc Sept 07 just means it was painted in September 07 but from the looks, it looks like its been refurbished...
The indicator lights on the S7 (battle short) and S5 (Ac interrupter) are actually linked together on TB6-6 so a spike could have taken them both out. Look at R15 on the burden resistors because the battle short indicator DS6 goes through there. DS7 which is for the AC interrupter goes to K8...
Yes, dirty or loose connections cause the safety system to overstate amperage. Trust us, we have all been there and thought it can't be a dirty connection but it normally turns out to be the connections. You can also try electrical cleaner from Wal-mart, that is what I use 90% of the time unless...
If you getting your TM (technical manual) from this website, then there is a specific TM just for the wiring schematics which is what you need. You'll have to familiarize yourself with the codes of each item (i.e. S8 for the reconnection switch). After you have looked at the TM's a few times...
Check the switch first. During cranking you need to check terminal 27 to make sure your getting 24volts. That is what sends power to the crank relay and also flashes the field.
Did you replace the connection board that had the mice nest on top, from one of you other threads? You're running 3 threads and its getting confusing; try to keep it to one and run off of that.
So since the unit only has 15hours make sure all your wires on S8 and the av/vm (on the front panel)...
The strip is your main generator leads coming in from the generator head. Yes, this could be the problem, I've had bad or loose connections on that board which would cause your problem (clean the connections). That is where all the mice and rats make their nest :x, their urine is horrible on the...
Take the top cover off, which has about 30 bolts holding it on. Then get ready to replace the return lines on the injectors because I'm sure they are dry rotten now but this will be easy since the top is off. You got an awesome unit!
So I had chance to pull the pistons on one that I got from Lockbourne OH, where they said the motor turned over. I originally pulled the head and found a small amount of rust so I honed the cylinders without removing the pistons. Then put it back together and still could not get it to start...
PLease look in the Technical Manual section above. People (Guy especially) have worked very hard on making the schematic. It's color coded and very easy to read
Leaving the dead crank switch to normal is fine. I've left units unattended for 4-5 months at a time with no chargers attached and they cranked fine. First, were the batteries new when you installed them? If they were, then either you have a slow drain from the generator or the charger. Most of...
Whoa that's a large number of engine problems. I've worked on well over 200 of these generators and only had 6 with engine damage due to water and 1 due to the rear main seal failing. Are you buying a lot of units with the flaps missing? I try to avoid those but I have bought a couple that I got...
Let me know how you were able to get the pistons out without removing the motor? Looks like one of mine is going to need new rings and I usually pull the entire motor out.