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Many years ago my temperature sensor failed, causing the high idle to stay on full time. This also engages the IP timing advance. Driving for a long period will cause premature failure of the glowplugs. Although turning off and restarting motor should not cause it to dis-engage. So, perhaps you...
I was under the impression that AC60G's needed more time than the stock GP's to heat up. I've always used a manual GP push button. If the wait light goes off after 6 seconds I keep it pressed for 6 more, so double the time. Fires right up on first crank, I also after glow, you can hear the idle...
Seems the TM 34P doesn't show the Drive end bushing either. Part 16 1928021 BEARING,SLEEVE is a stop collar. The kit for 27MT is DR-79-1100 / tell them its 24V. The correct brushes are #68-126. Here's a rundown on the rest of the part numbers with hopefully, now, the correct bushing numbers...
6 years ago my starter failed, started grinding the flexplate. It had been cranking slow since I got it 2 1/2 years earlier, the guy who sold it to me said they were all like that. Went to a friends shop, where there were plenty of CUCV parts kicking about in case I needed something.
He...
Had to do mine last year when the weep hole started leaking. One of the things I would have liked to know back then was that there is a civvy 6.2 gasket for the front cover, instead of just using anaerobic sealant per the TM's.
I couldn't help but notice that "Gungearz" has in the space of 4 months made 933 posts, that's if his join date is correct. Is that some kind of record?
" This is why I hate manual switches for the GP's you almost always have swollen plugs. "
I've had a manual push button on my GP's since I got it 8 years ago. Using AC 60's, never had a swollen plug. So, no..you dont always almost have a swollen plug.
I've done this way too many times now.. Remove shroud from rad, push it back towards the engine, leave the fan, clutch on as the rad goes straight up. Tape or wire the lines and hoses back to the engine so they are out of the way. Nice to have another person to help with lifting it in/out so...
$800 up here for a new 4-core rebuild. Guy was nice, let me have it for $600. Find a knowlegeable skilled guy to do the work. 2 years ago I re-cored it and the worksmanship was appalling, plus they only used a 2-core which isn't rigid enough for the large size. Had to do it all over.
You're correct, stud(23) where the pump bolts on is the one showing in the OP's pic. Its goes into the water jacket and will leak if not tight . Should have sealant on it, you might have to drain the coolant and pull it to apply sealer if all else fails.
3. Apply pipe sealant to threads...
Loosing prime could be many things, check the underside of your filter base for wetness, its a common issue that has many threads here, inspect all your rubber lines, etc. It could be a poorly made lift pump. I had a Carter that failed at 13 months, the last one made it 5 years, I consider that...
I concur with the annoying misuse of the word Billet when referring to a radiator. Its right up there with "mag" wheels, hardly anyone has true magnesium wheels.
"The 'rebuilt' 27MTs often have a short life span."
Why is that? I would be interested to know. Rebuilt my 27MT myself with a $40 rebuild kit 6 years ago. Still cranks fast, no problems. As for being easier to install..maybe you guys need to get fit. I've heard nothing but nightmare failure...
A contradiction ? ; its a known issue, the military version of the filter base has a fuel pressure sensor o-ring thats prone to leak. Can be replaced easily or changed to the civy version. Doesn't make it a #&$@ system that needs tossing.
As for your heavy equipment experience, well thats...