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" The moxt effective way to bleed injectors is to get the engine to fire and run on a few cylinders"
Really?, problem here is I was never in a position to get the motor running any of the 5 or so times when I ended up having to bleed my injectors. I'm assuming the OP hasn't got his running...
Simple way to test the lift pump is place a clear hose on the filter bleed nipple, open bleed screw " make sure you've opened it enough!"put hose in a bottle, crank engine. You should get a good flow, fill over an inch of the bottle with every crank cycle. In the Tm's there are proper pressure...
Sounds like you have the dreaded "air in fuel system syndrome". There must be hundreds of threads covering this as its a common issue on CUCV's. Most likely culprit is the fuel presure sensor in the back of your fuel filter base.
Check to see if its wet on the bottom. If you get it started...
I never figured it out either, Asked several CUCV guys up here, they dont have them either. Were they all misplaced by Army mechanics? That being said, I've driven my M1009 for 8 years now, never had any sort of hub engagement issue.
In my case everything exhaust wise, nuts and clamps, is tight. If I grab the rear pipe and move it up and down it makes the noise, bloody annoying when the windows down. It seems to be from the clamped together sections. There is some play on the rubber mounts where the exhaust hangs, so I may...
I'm running a civvy 6,2 plastic intake muffler on my M1009, minus the hose to the front which i haven't found yet, so the front opening is next to the front battery tray. Makes a difference in quieting down the sound, doesn't seem to have affected the performance.
Dont know if this would be applicable to your situation. I recently had my exhaust replaced, it was previously welded and now is clamped together. I now have a chirp, squeak type sound that is also load dependent. Wont do it in neutral or under light throttle loads. Trying to figure out a way to...
Working in the movie industry with military vehicles we would always drive in a convoy to the set and try to keep it tight as many of the guys didn't know the town well and would get lost. Apparently having a map and knowing how to navigate is a a rare skill. Going down the highway with 6 dueces...
Couple of weeks ago I took my M1009 in to a reputable specialist shop to fix the leaks on my NP208. It was leaking at the rear seal, needed a new bushing also. The tail housing was leaking as was where the case splits in half. So I had them take it apart, re-seal the case and replace several...
On that stuck hood release. I've experienced it, where you have to pound on the hood to get it to release. Take some white lithium grease and lube the latch well, also the striker where it contacts the latch. Should fix this issue.
Hope you got a AC-Delco unit because Carter pumps are a piece of @!*#. Put some gasket sealer on the gasket so it will stick to the pump and not fall off. Thread the rear bolt in first just a little so that the pump will hang. Its the harder one to get in so do it first, doing the front one...
" upgrade to the MARINE version, which will double your HP."
Sorry to sound so sceptical, but isn't this a myth, ie..incorrect or misleading info. I think I've read here on a thread somewhere that this has been de-bunked, that there is no gain from going with the marine injectors. I mean...
I'm running Walker quiet flow 3 mufflers, Part # 22329. Second set now, nice subdued sound. Tried one Walker # 18274 which was cheaper. Didn't like the sound it was louder, so changed it. I think the motor makes enough sound on its own and doesn't need augmenting with some racy booming sounding...
I'm in Canada, so a replacement brass/copper radiator is more expensive because of the shipping. Find a "competent" radiator rebuilder and have it re-cored. Cost me $600.00 for a new 4 core and a new 4-plate tranny cooler in the side tank.
Thanks for that pic, couldn't seem to find it when I searched last night. Turns out the guy who re & re'd it was different than the guy who hot tanked the cases. 2nd guy took said unit off and didn't tell first guy about it. Went in today and had it put on.
Took my M1009 in today to a reputable transmission shop I have used before to take apart, replace seals snd bushing and re-seal my transfer case. Looks great, no leaks anymore. Drive away and notice that my speedometer is reading way too slow. Not bouncing or anything weird, worked perfectly...
"the guys here in jacksonville said they couldnt rebuild the cucv starters parts were gettin to hard to get "
Find another place to get your work done. I just cant believe someone could say these parts are hard to come by. A rebuild kit for the 27MT was in stock at my local auto supply store...
"There is no timing chain in a 6.2" Nicely stated as fact when in fact you are spewing misinformation. Dont bother posting when you dont know what you're talking about. There is a timing chain, its behind the aluminum timing gear cover.