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Take it to a competent wheel alignment shop, they'll tell you for sure if its the steering box needing replacement or some other issue, excessive toe-in etc.. thats causing it. Thats how I came to find out that I needed a new box.Be careful where you source it from. I got a new refurbished unit...

What happened? Checked the thread and he's deleted his posts. I got a real laugh out of the " what I do for a living bit" No I didn't check it out. I suppose you guys can stop searching for the mythical good plug, must of drove the parts guys crazy. Got a reply from AC Delco technical...

I'm looking at replacing my seal again. Seems to be a recurring fail. Will check the yoke when its out. Anyone here change out the bushing behind the rear seal? Can this be changed with just the removal of the rear extension?

What you "really" do is irrelevant. You could be a particle physicist and that wouldn't make a difference. I'm not having a go at you here. Why not post info on the two different types of plugs and their part numbers. Whenever I've ordered AC60's there was never an option of two different types...

"NAPA sells two verisons of the things; one is alum core, the other is copper core." I'm going to call BS on this. Never heard of this, or seen any reference to 2 different types and have run AC60's for 7 years. If you've got info that we have never heard of, by all means share it. I would...

I've found that water running down the inside of firewall frequently comes from the lip that the windshield rubber seals against. Only way to check it is to pull the windshield, see if there's any rust forming as that expands and pushes the rubber seal allowing water to seep in. I've never had...

Yes, it has a brand new CDR valve, oil cap has been cleaned and tested OK. Being at the passenger rear, I checked the back of the valve cover by wiping it with a white rag, no fresh oil mark. Its another one of those, only leaks when you're not looking at it scenarios. I'll be inspecting it...

Well..perhaps I spoke too soon. A closer look just now at what is still collecting at the front of the starter shows it to be engine oil, there is no smell of diesel, and intake valley is completely dry. Rather than start a new thread, I'll continue here. Sure there are plenty of minor oil weep...

Well to end this story. It seems that the 3/8'' filter input rubber line was the source of my leak. I also managed to get my arm under the manifold and tighten the clamp on IP input. Didn't replace it yet becuase it looks fine, so I'll leave it for now. Drove last night for a couple of hours...

Well, drove last night for 30 minutes, just checked underneath. Barely a minor amount of discernible wetness. Will take it out for longer today. Of course my main suspects remain the filter to IP 1/4" rubber line at the IP end and the hard line from lift pump to filter. This line is hard to see...

As the only wet area I could find where a leak could occur, I replaced the rubber line between lift pump hard line and fuel filter. Sourced a spring that fits around the 3/8 fuel line so it wont wear a hole rubbing against the CDR mount bracket. The old hose actually looked pretty good, with...

Well...the IP, all its lines and the valley underneath it are all dry. It really seemed to be coming from the pre-formed hose between filter housing and lift pump hard line. The 1/4 IP hose looked dry. I suppose my question would be to anyone who has had to replace it. Can you use regular 3/8...

So, noticed fuel down at my bellhousing cover drain hole and at bottom of starter next to block. Its draining down from the intake valley. Took off air cleaner assembly to get a better look. All the lines at the IP are dry, it looks like its coming somewhere halfway down the valley. I suspect...

My 27MT starter was also slow cranking until I rebuilt it myself. 7 years going strong and cranking over fast. I can see no reason to go to a gear reduction, all I hear is nightmare stories of them failing.

I got a starter rebuild kit from my local auto parts store. Tell them its for a 27MT...was about $40.00. As for the alts, Delco-Remy 27si type 100 HD, they should be able to get that too, or try CUCV electric.

Had this issue with my rear output shaft seal for a while. Yes, I've replaced it 4 times. Lasts close to a year then starts seeping again. Eventually if I dont wipe it off it starts flinging off the yoke and drips on the ground, very small amount, buts its annoying. I have a 4 inch lift so the...

Second on that lift pump. Even in the installation instructions it says that a ruptured diaphragm can allow fuel to contaminate the engine oil. Make sure that you get an AC Delco one, not a Carter, they are total ****.

The 11g and 13G plugs are obsolete and discontinued. They were prone to swell. The AC60 plugs are the replacement. I've used them for 7 years, they are great plugs. They just require more time to heat up, so I have a push button switch instead of card actuation. When you said the relay was not...

"You can jump it with two cars or two battery chargers. The only way to get 24 volts is to go from ground on first battery to the positive on the second battery. If you treat each battery as a circuit you are fine. pos to pos. neg to neg." Thanks for clarifying that. Thats what I thought. For...

" do not try to jump the rear battery, you can send 24 volts to the car being used to jump it with and cause big problems." Is this correct? It was my understanding that if both batteries were dead and you had 2 other 12V vehicles each with a set of Jumper cables that you could safely crank a...