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Anybody have the wheel well to wheel well dimensions for a 105? I believe the bed to bed dimension is just over 73" or so. I want to put the items in the picture in the back of one. Ones a 300A arc welder that's right at 28" in width, and the other a 15CFM compressor, right at 23" or so in...

There's a real nice one up on ebay right now from one of our members. A well documented rebuild, with detail to attention like no other.

Wreckerman, if you only took a bath for 5k you did awesome! :razz:

Wow, I didn't know it could be as simple as match a chip to get latex paint from Lowes etc. I'f I'm understanding correct, I just want a flat satin paint, the same color as a paint chip, and they can mix up what I need? Do I need to ask for anything specific?

good heads up, I should replace mine as well

That seems like a steal, I would love to see them myself, I'm guessing titling would be an issue, but if it had that cool crane setup like the one shown, I'm sure I could find a use for it.

My 109 is wicked fast for a Deuce. I vote fuel filters as well, assuming the brakes aren't sticking like crazy.

I've got to ask how much as well.

That's part of the thought after talking to the guys there. They think it should be easy to do, even a 4" shaft should work. Given the issues private guys have with them, and the obvious problem the military had with them on my truck, a single shaft should reduce the issue.

drj, I actually came to the same conclusion, the output shaft velocity is what matters, and as long as the front wheels are being pushed faster than the fronts, then the sprag wouldn't engage.

I talked to these guys today: Dayton Clutch&Joint They think that a single piece driveshaft, with a fairly large shaft diamter, say 4-5" should do the trick, and they can reuse the welded yoke ends on my existing shafts. So now all I have to come up with are the yoke ends for the flange plates...

I used parts from these guys: Generator Conversion Kits to Propane and Natural Gas. Specifically the trifuel version.

I would think it would be pretty easy. I purchased a kit a few years back to run mine from propane or NG as well as the standard gas system. All that was required was a small spacer to be mounted on the carb neck to allow the gas to feed in, it looked to me that just drilling and tapping a feed...

That 10 ton is an impressive machine, seems like quite a deal!

Good ideas all around, hopefully I'll just find a complete drive line from another XLWB truck and go from there.

I think in this case, the pillow box fell off the frame, hence the horrible damage to it. A brownie box sounds interesting, how would it play with the front sprag drive? I was think the single piece drive shaft would have the slip joint to allow for travel still. My biggest issue actually isn't...

So I spent a bit of time taken apart the remains of my M814 rear drive shaft, and I'm really struggling to figure out why they went to so much trouble to build a two piece drive shaft as opposed to a single piece shaft. I've heard two piece shafts are used for high speed applications because of...

Excellent points guys, I've always made sure to have insurance required for the two trucks I've picked up. The BMV is more or less the same in Ohio as Nebraska, no way to get any form of a tag until an inspection is made, so I've typically been told to take another tag with me just in case that...

Ron, thanks for the tip. I noticed that the holes where mine was mounted are a little wallowed out, likely due to the reason you mentioned. My buddy is now theorizing that that might have actually been the failure mechanism, that is the plate came lose, whirling around and broke everything apart.

If this is your first it's just going to be slow, it's possible it could take the full 60 days from what I've read. My first took over a full month, so it maybe just around the corner. Best of luck, and have your buddy lock overything that isn't tied down into one of the tool boxes, the site...