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RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Can i run a 6.2L in the engine can? all you have to change is the top of the IP ... the fuel shut off solinoid is in the cap 24V HMMWV and 12V for CUCV ... you should be able to remove the right side fame piece...the angle iron place a bottle jack under it ... lift the...

31 X 10.5 15's are the right tire for the truck Go by the tire manufactures reccomended tire pressure .... different tires different pressures... my good year wranglers are 50 psi tire and thats what i run on the road but if i am in the mudd kick them dowm a lil for more flex about 35-40

Re: RE: Re: RE: Can i run a 6.2L in the engine can? yeah it is nice but let me tell you white painted floors in a dyno are hell to keep clean... oil is not bad put one drop of antifreeze on that floor and grab your ice skates

RE: Re: RE: Can i run a 6.2L in the engine can? yes short bumps of 12 volts no more then a good 6 count before cranking the starter in the dyno bay i have only had to hook the GPs up once out of the 800 engines i ran last year

the two piece rear main seal is no different then any other SBC engine.. if it leaks now it will continue to leak til it is replaced...one of many seals that dry up from sitting

Re: RE: Can i run a 6.2L in the engine can? its a "detuned" 6.5 in my dyno bay

RE: Re: RE: Can i run a 6.2L in the engine can? if you have ay more questions let me know.... i test 6.5's on a dyno all day... what a great job .. so i know most of what you will be looking at and trouble shooting issues

RE: Re: RE: Can i run a 6.2L in the engine can? one big thing before you even fire them up is to prime the oil system... remove the oil pump drive on ther back of the block and prime the pump... it is a hex drive so a standard SBC oil priming tool wont work... make sure it primes between 50-65 psi

all you would need is a starter.. with a wired switch a12 volt positive switched wire to the injection pump "where the pink wire goes" and fuel can with on line to the lift pump the other line off the fuel return. loop the fuel line where it goes to the fuel filter... plug the oil cooler...

well it all depends on the shape as servicability of your truck. as mine is my daily driver about 80-100 miles a day i have had no problems going long distances at interstate speeds... do a good PMCS and make of log of what you find... check ALL YOUR FLUIDS including your diffs and transfer...

hmm seems like i will have alot to think about and try... was almost thinking of possibly fiberglassing them into the dash above the standard guages since my dash pad is shot.

Does anyone out there know of a company that makes guage pods that fit the pillar. i have been wanting to add a few more gauges and want a cleaner look then just mounting them below the dash.

RE: Re: Detroit diesel , 92 series, 8V in a 5ton yeah the 71 and 92 are cubes per cylinder... that would be a great engine swap wow the torque... be like dropping in a 903 cummins :driver:

RE: Re: RE: glass door glass should not be a problem.... if you can find a local shop that can cut tempered glass .. just take out the passenger side glass for them to use as a template and there you go.. good to hook

this truck was in last weeks ARMY TIMES. it is set to replace the outdated HMMWV. the power is to be updated so it can handle all the bolt armor that the HMMWV cant handle..

eh if your low colant light came that is not good... you still have an air bubble in the system.... have you Flushed out the block.... i had a problem after i repaired my radiator... the radiator would do over fill the surge tank like i had air in the system. and left rusty antifreeze...

Re: RE: Pictures I agree with westech on this situation. I have also seen this on brand new engines on the dyno, even when the glow plugs are not used at all. the cause of the glow plugs to disapear on my end at work was from a bad injectors sticking or leaking... turning into flame throwers...

no pics. well the peices MAY be small enough to fall through the pre cup opening is about 1/4 X1/8 slot.... did the plug look broke when you took it out or was it melted... how swollen was it ?... if the end of the plug was carbon fouled with no signs that it was broke may be a good sign ...

the coolant system is a big pain to bleed.. the crossover and upper radiator hose are so high almost the same level as the radiator. but once you get it all out it should work just fine.. if you want you heater to work better.. there is some plumbing changes you can do like on the HMMWV...

yes they can get an air bubble in the system..with a cool engine, let the engine run with the cap off and heater on ..watch the flow in the radiator you will see the fluid level drop after the T-stat opens then fil with more coolant.. sometimes it will take up to 30 mins to bleed the air out...