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I'm thinking along the lines of valve cover gasket or maybe even a small fuel leak from the filter and picking up dirt and undercoating on the way down.

Just leave it as is, the alternators are only 12 volts each as are the batteries and everything except the glow plugs so why bother?

Try the left hand bit! 9 times out of 10 it will grab it and unscrew it/

If it is broken, try using a sharp pointed center punch and hammer and tap it out or get a left-hand drill bit and they usually unscrew themselves.

Oh yeah, DITCH THE LIFT BLOCKS!!!! The front shaft and T case should be ok, good luck.

Take it to a frame shop, an old school one that knows what they are doing and not relying on a computer readout to tell them where to hook and how much to pull. That left frame horn is dumped down and that means it's 'kicked' up above the wheel and probably swayed over to the right. All easy fix...

Good info CUCVRUS, I've seen u-joint caps spot welded in place before but your pic is impressive!

For sure the problem is on the fuel side NOT the ignition side. I've never done it but I remember reading where a person can put the injector pump cover back on wrong and block the solenoid valve open thus it won't shut off. I don't think thats your problem, just tossing it out there.

Exactly, unless you pull the pan and clean it out what happens? I can tell you (YMMV) the sludge collects in one convenient place, unfortunately that place is the oil pick up screen and that blocks the oil from getting to the oil pump. I think you can guess what happens when said engine gets no oil.

Absolutely nothing, but being the nice guy I am I am willing to drive all the way there and tow it away just to help you out.

If the local shop can make up the U bolts then I'm sure they can help you with the springs themselves, they might even still have new old stock sitting on the shelf for a deal.

I think you just want to brag about your truck, that's ok I would too!

Most all of LMC is after market made by non-oem suppliers and will be "will fit" and will have possiblly been changed over the years to fit other years/models, hence the "will fit"

Aree you sure it's a 25 gal. tank? I thought they came 20,30 and maybe a 40 gal. I'd start by measuring the tank and go from that.

LOL Of course you have one!

Or he can just dump all the pins and springs out of the cyl. and any key that physically fits in the lock will turn the cylinder. I don't know why anyone would want that but I'm just the messenger.

If the engine is locked up forget it, it's not worth rebuilding as every moving part will have damage. As far as a step by step R&I of the engine, look in the TM (maybe?) or buy a 'how to' book at Auto Zone or online that covers 84 Chevy pick ups .

Adding clear to an existing color coat is going to present problems with adhesion, lifting ect. It will also still have the 'stickyness' that any other flat paint has making it hard to clean, if you go with a semi gloss then you have the shine and that isn't very OEM looking.

I don't remember what I paid for my GM dampener but it wasn't much more then the cheaper Dorman one and I rarely even consider Dorman products. Use the GM!

Heat, use a torch and burn it off. Just remove it from the truck first!