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Well today looked like the last day for a while that I could take the DuraVee to the beach, as usual I got a pre-dawn ride on the ferry and then breakfast at the best restaurant on the island, 4 eggs, 4 pancakes, steak, 2 sausage patties, two pieces of toast and a large tea in a to-go cup...

The start circuit goes through the "box" Use a test light and see is the signal is getting in and out of the box. Also make sure the connectors are good and tight.

Welcome to the SS forums?

Well it is ether leaking or not, yes you have to fix leaking..............

Mine has no muffler can hardly tell the difference, defiantly not loud. You do not want to terminate the exhaust under the truck.

I think I would just live with 7 good glow plugs before getting to the point I had to pull the heads, they only affect the first couple minutes of operation.

So you are saying even though it will not shift you are not able to get any codes, only the twelve flashes?

That fluid can cause issues, you can replace the seal without going into the trans (get youtube certified) Also clean both sides trans and cable with contact cleaner. This would not have any effect on testing with the TCM disconnected however...

There is no reason that pulley should fail, I have had no issues with mine at all, it ether did not get tightened enough or the shaft was damaged the first time it was put on loose.

I already have two alternators, one 12V one 24V. But because I want to use 2 6TL AGM batteries I am going to go to a 12-24V inverter and two 12V alternators.

There is a bolt behind the inst. panel going through the firewall, it needs to be cleaned up on both sides as there are also wires connected on the engine side also.

It really should not, you have some strange symptoms. What codes are you getting now, if it is not shifting into 3rd or 4th it should have some codes. Have you checked the trans end of the cable (pass through connector) for fluid? If you remove the connector from the TCM (J1) it should drive in...

I went down yesterday and filed a SF-97 to get a title, they charged me the customary 6.25% tax on the $2000 purchase price. GP had already charged me the 6.25% on the entire cost including the auction fee and some other taxes that motor vehicles are not supposed to be charged as in county and...

You could also use the earlier cable controlled valve, then if you wanted to you could install a cable to control it, VERY handy in S TX where it can be in the low 50s in the am and high 80s in the afternoon.

It likely has nothing to do with engine heat. If you have a return line issue it can take some time at speed to cause fuel starvation. (when the fuel pressure in the body equalizes with the transfer pump in the IP, the high pressure head actually starves for fuel) If you have a fuel tank vent...

Sounds like a fuel starvation issue, how do you know it is overheating? BTW most diesels will run until they melt down, not simply stop running. It could possibly be a return issue. but more likely a starvation issue or possibly a vent issue, did you remove the check valves in the suction and...

If your controller is programmable the crank sensor on that engine gives 4 pulses per crank revolution.

Basically this is what you have. But again you do not want to ground the "return" lead at the engine, it should be the same location the EZ controller is grounded or you can damage the controller with voltage spikes. It is best on all sensor wiring to use twisted pair to reduce noise caused...

It should not.

One of the two leads must be grounded or the controller will not see any signal on the other lead, you should use twisted pair wires and ground the lead at the same place the controller is grounded. There are different types of crank sensors but the HMMWV one did work with my TCI controller on...