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The key is no good, I am surprised at how good the shaft looks, the pulley must be much softer, it looks like you just did not get the pulley tight enough. I ordered 4 keys off of fleybay just to have stock, they will be here early next week if you want drop me a PM with your address and I will...

The small switch cuts the smaller 12V connection to the middle of the batteries not the heavy connection between the batteries.

Switch 1 the BIG switch cuts the ground side of the low side battery (24V) the smaller switch that most folks think is good enough for the main switch is used to disconnect the connection to the middle of the batteries (12V) turn off the small switch first and turn on the small switch last.

That pulley listed has a different offset than the ones we are running, I assume that is because of a different serpentine belt setup on the earlier trucks under 197K serial number. but they did build a pot load with solid pulleys.

I just talked to Trailworthy fab and they said I should not have any issues using Interco radial tires and how to remove 1/4" if I do.

This 200A serpentine application shows the solid pulley but it uses a key

That pulley is keyed and the shaft in the TM looks like it is keyed and shows a key,, I cannot remember now if I have a key on mine or not.

I have been running one but for only about 3K with no problems, can't see how a little rust would hurt, you did clean the bore and stuff yes?

If that is the one you bought then it is a solid pulley and the nut did not get tight enough allowing the pulley to spin on the shaft, if that is a 400A alt I don't think they were ever intended to have a solid pulley way too much rotating mass.

IIRC the TC fill plugs are 32mm If it has been sitting a long time I would suspect the trans is low, usually as the cooler and torque converter slowly drain back into the pan it will show over full. That is why you normally check with the engine running.

It sure does not look like it, I have been wrong before,,,if the center of the hub is also moving on the shaft then the shaft is damaged to the point the pulley will not come off as the shaft is straight with no taper or keyway, again I could be wrong... EDIT, I am wrong... that shaft does have...

That pulley has an overrunning clutch in it that the bearings have gone south in, will likely need to use a puller to remove. EDIT, I was wrong!

What were you getting at WOT?

If you search for the #5 bolt by its manufactures number 12339406-2, two of the widely recommended sites to do business with pop up. HPG (hummer parts guy) and Kascar (real4wd) Register an account with the ones you want to do business with. For small things like this it is best to fill your cart...

Instead of googling everything try cracking open the TMs all the answers are there. I will help you on this one. Here is a link that has all the TMs you need to start. https://www.nsnlookup.com/equipment-intelligence/land/hmmwv Since you have one of the non advanced trucks you would work down...

Did you get this resolved? if so what was the issue.

Please post pictures of your radiator setup.

I was going to say if it was too low, set it to .5v, .51 would also work, as long as it does not go below .2v or higher than 4.9v it will "work" just the shift points may be a little off. Setting it to .5v is not the correct procedure but will get you real close.

What is the narrowest recommended rim? The 39.5-13.5-R16.5 "ROK-08" tires recommend a min of 10" I am thinking I can get away with the 9" wheels. The tire will have more crown than it would have with the 10" wheels, but again I think I will give it a shot and see how they wear.

Also on page 75 is a pretty simple test procedure for the brake TCC switch.