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I suppose we can go back and start another 35 page thread on how the two must be the same engine then and never figure out the difference in the two. Other than the one spring in the injector pump and maybe the cam anyway. Maybe I'll take this to the other thread since it came back from the dead...

Yeah I just got a couple (yes two) in one day for almost nothing. I saved them from the scrap heap.(LDS motors, that is)

Stock LDT-134 horsepower, stock LDS-170 horsepower. Sure the fuel can be cranked up on the LDT to closely match LDS power output, but at the expense of higher exhaust gas temps because the fuel system and air intake and exhaust runners and ports coupled with small turbos were not meant to...

Change your fuel filters too if you haven't recently. All three. And crack the bleed screw on top of the two fuel filters on the driver side and see if fuel flows out with the truck off, but the accessory power switch on. The in tank pump needs to work for good performance And you NEED to bypass...

I was referring to failures associated with high exhaust temps. Yes they still are apparently subject to the other failures, although I haven't read about anyone throwing a rod from an LDS.

Oh I know man. He said his was hanging 5 inches below the bumper though. That is too much, pto shaft or not.

Yeah I know, but I was talking about capacity after cutting it down and recoring it to stop it from hangin below the bumper.

Glad to see you making good progress man. It'll be a real weight lifted when you spin it over and it fires right up!

Yes, but can the LDS not be turned up as well? All other things being equal, the LDT and LDS are not the same motor exactly. If they were there would be no need for two different numerical designations. At least the LDS isn't in danger of coming apart when it is producing the same power that the...

Repower with an LDS motor, turn up the fuel a bit and play with boost pressures and you should be good. At least that way it is a bolt in repower. I'll be doing this soon myself.

Huh? Please elaborate for those who don't live with you?

And even then, if that becomes an issue you can increase the bearing preload and increase either the quality of grease you use or the maintenance interval to maintain reliability. Of course if you want to be able to do what you want to do and not worry about overloading then you need to just not...

Also keep in mind that the charging system will charge low batteries harder until they come up to acceptable levels, then the regulator will tell the system to slack off once the batteries come up.

Which is part of why you are supposed to check 6TL batteries daily. Just normal preventative maintenance.

Nice job! Let me know if you need anything.

I'll have to look tomorrow, but I'm sure it is well over 15,000 now.

I figure as long as it can hold three gallons or so by itself it should have enough capacity.

Well the main thing when either selecting a new radiator or having the bus radiator modified is making sure that they have sufficient capacity. How thick is that bus radiator?

I just open my fuel cap and look. If the fuel level is below the strainer, it is time to fuel up if I can.

No it won't. At + or - 10% tolerance on 28 volts at charge that is 2.8 volts, which allows for a maximum safe charging voltage of 30.8 volts on conventional batteries. Ever take any electronics courses? And don't get mad here, I'm not trying to belittle you or be nasty.