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Look at performance aluminum radiators made to fit big block equipped 60's and early 70's Ford Mustangs.

So I guess what I'm asking here is: is it even worth going to the HX50 and bumping up the fuel, maybe stepping up to larger injectors if I don't go intercooled? I need sustained usable power.

But then again, more air and more fuel make for higher EGTs, so at some point an intercooler will become a must, especially in my case (wrecker) so that I don't melt a motor down. I need to be able to harness the extra power gained without having to take my foot out of it halfway up every hill.

Charging 30 volts is fine. That won't hurt anything at all. You just have an over sensitive volt meter.

I've used some recently on some of my stuff. It doesn't hurt the paint, just don't let it dry on it.

What about an HX 50? That should be a bolt on with some tuning I would think. I don't know, I'm not a diesel performance guru.

Alright just checking. I have a leaking rear hub and a wheel cylinder that needs replaced on another so I'll be doin the same soon, just on a deuce.

Please tell me you tore down and went through all of the hubs. That ain't something you can squeeking by on.

Michelin.

If Napa doesn't have those sockets you'll have to find an truck parts shop that has them on the shelf. They won't be cheap, around $70 each.

For now don't worry about it. It is only one out of many. I had one do the same thing and it is still like that. When you have time drill the center out and use an easy out.

The imported alternators do have a much higher failure rate. The nice thing is that you usually find out as soon as you get it installed. They usually don't charge right out of the box. You get three or four bad ones to one good one. That's another reason why it is hard to make a living as a...

Yeah you can use it. No rent involved. Or you can just... Leave that M1070 with me... I'll keep it. Lol

No no, it is only going to Houston. No longer going to Jacksonville at all.

DO NOT use the cork gaskets. You are wasting your time and will have to do the job again. Just fill the keyway with good grey RTV. Use lots.

Next time you have a front axle shaft out, look carefully at the u-joint. There are no grease seals on the joints. The joints lube themselves by being forced through the grease. If you pack the knuckle really well and then install the shaft and then turn it by hand you can see plainly how the...

You can fill from the side. I wouldn't remove the top cover if you don't have to. Socket sizes should be a 4 7/8 and a 4 3/8. No need for a deep socket, just regular 8 POINT axle nut sockets.

Yeah go ahead and do the transmission. It is just too easy to do it to risk having any problems. I've burned up way too many components in jeeps I've had over the years by thinking " It should be ok, I'll check it later." I've learned my lesson.

Still pending but it is a go. Ten gallons of gear oil is not going to be enough. Also, keep in mind that a regular deuce hub takes over a pound of grease to pack one hub. I buy my grease in four pound tubs. Red grease. You are going to need a lot of grease and oil.

Stick a water hose in the hole in the bottom and let it run on low for a few minutes, then remove it. Repeat as needed. You will need to go through all of the hubs though. No getting around that, unless the hubs weren't submerged.