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Plugged injector(s)? Old, bad fuel?

The only door lock I could find a code on read something like 40R or 40B, near as I could see with a magnifying glass.

I broke the plastic part the cable slips into and uses as a "roller" to make the bend to the column. I used a self tapping screw and a a sort of roller on it to make the pivot.

Is the rear hatch lock any different than the door locks?

I'm curious, whats an "empty" cylinder?

I haven't found a rear hatch tumbler.

How about anyone have a full set of the lock tumblers and a key they'd sell? I can also trade a good front blackout light and a good volt gauge. Also still have the vehicle part of the slave cable set up I took off mine, complete with plastic cap and cables.

I have two door locks and a key to match, but what of the tailgate, I'd like to be able to lock that as well. I don't trust having another key cut as I'm not sure the first one was done right. I'd like a "proven" key to try.

That might be a faulty connection. Perhaps check the ground. There is a multi-pronged grounding block, just a little thing with spade terminals jutting out. It is located on the left side of the inside of the vehicle, out of sight behind the dummy lights.

I'd like to try someones door key to see if it works in my 1009. I see some on ebay that look nothing like the one I had cut. It would save paying a locksmith to cut one that fits.

Oh, hows the fuel pump pressure?

Why not try the simple fix first, and run some kerosene with your diesel for awhile and see if the injectors clean up? It'll likely plug a filter or two while loosening all the gunk settled in your tank also. I've read this, haven't tried it.

Did a bunch of filter changes, oil, cdr valve, and fuel. While the fuel filter was off, I wiped off, then brass brushed, the sensor. It still shows water in fuel. I also did a bunch of electrical work. I cleaned all the bus bar connections and dielectric greased them, and also the headlight...

Do any of you run propane for boost? I don't plan to, as this is my daily driver, and seems fine to me, but I am curious.

The orange power wire to the light switch comes from the fuse box. My light switch (apparently a common issue) went bad and I lost all lights. A new switch is not overly expensive. Since all the lighting power is run into and out of the light switch, it burns out. I wired relays to power my...

Anyone know of a cheap source for these? I want to hard wire my dash this type socket.

Mine broke the a little of the steel pin the press onto, no such "just pop off" luck.

I have a bid in on an used speed-o-meter, but am curious. Anyone know of a source for replacement needles for when ham handed backyard mechanics (like me), break one off?

Thanks again, will do. Might as well swap it no matter, I want this to be right and to last.

They both came together, but are harborfreight stuff... However, all said, the gauges give the appearance of decent quality.