Search results

will a 120 mph speedo work as a swap, or will the needle point to where the numbers were on the old speedo?

I'm trying to figure out the o.e.m. type gauges. Three connection on each, power, out to the sending unit, and negative for return to zero. Where does the return to zero connection connect to? Is it a temporary ground source? and if so, where and how? Does a relay provide a ground switched...

I actually removed the odometers and hand spun them to all zero's. I still need an actual working speedometer gauge myself.

Just figure if anybody has a restored cucv out there and wanted to have the speedo read like new, they'd like one. Any 1980's vehicle isn't likely to pass as new.

Just got a bunch of parts. Only needed a few. Took two speedo's apart, one for the needle, other was broken. Reset both odometers to zero, anybody want to spend 5 bucks to flat rate them to you? You'll need to break down your speedometer and slip these in. Their held in place with just a slip...

What's a ferrite choke?

A lot of factors can come into play that cause weak starting. If any of the cables are corroded, wires broken inside the insulation, poorly clamped, or poorly bolted to a bus bar or the starter or a ground point, that will make a good battery seem weak. Also check the ground points from each...

Luckily we only saw about 10 below and it's warming. Coldest I've seen in sixteen - eighteen years here was fifty some below. Nothing would start. Neighbor came down with a salamander heater to start the 4 cyl minivan I was driving then, took awhile with that. Just starting out back then...

Since I fixed the battery cables it's been ok, but like the idea having the heaters for the "in case" factor. I think my housing is salvage-able, gonna give it a go once I get caffeinated:) If I end up needing one, I'll drop you a line mangus, you've been great about offering to help. I thought...

I pic'd my nose, does that count?

I put all the military noise filters into my inside power feeds, and grounded the firewall real well, but still have alternator "feedback", a high pitched noise, that gets louder as the engine revs higher, feeding through my stereo and coming out the speakers, how do I cure this? p.s. quite...

Put in a freeze plug heater. Sure wasn't no half hour fun job. It wouldn't budge, then fell inside the block. Then wouldn't come out. Dropped a big punch on my nose and bloodied it, anti-freeze all down my sleeves. Got - r - done, finally. Thermostat housing broke. The top bolt busted a...

Ah, the heater said to install the return line into the block drain. Maybe I'll just use the lower radiator hose heater I also have.

That sounds right. Tap into the front battery. Use a an inline fuse. I'd also use a relay, somthe lights can't be left on. Power the relay from a source that only has power when the keys on. I installed a whole acc. fuse box this way, and have since found use for all the outputs on it.

I'm getting ready to install the new thermostat, and block heater. I'd like to drain the block of it's coolant while I do it. Where is the plug to drain the block? As long as I'm picking brains here, where do you tap into for engine oil temp? Is there a spot near the filter?

I went through my fuse box with a test light. They were hot with and without the key on. I used the 12 volt terminal block to tap into constant 12 volt already, but want a source of power when the key is used, both acc. and on / run. I wonder if the cucv has one available?

I think the blazers are a beast all onto them selves, especially the floors and from behind the doors back.

Either will work. I just want to tap into such a spot to activate a relay.

Mine, as stock will stay in 2nd, with the pedal down, up to 55mph, as per my gps. It's a M1009, Blazer, with the highway gears.

I'd like to find a power line that is hot both when the key is on and when its in the accessory position. Anyone know where to find such a place?