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Good for you...glad I was able to help... but as I have said before,, been there done that.. When you adjust the ebrake make sure it is just on the cusp of applying so there is no slop in the cable...the shoes or the linkage. And the Sympathetic vibration is just that.. it amplifies any out...

Looks like a 2AO16. With the electronic ignition kit.

The mount goes on a adaptor which goes over the driver's fresh air vent..hence the bend in the rv mirror mount... to clear the antenna...

Guess you better cut it up and send em each a piece.

If you have the early style on dash fuel filter, the fuel lines (rubber) tend to get porous and fuel drains back into tank by sucking air in thru those lines.. you never see a leak because they are on the suck side of the pump...many is the time I have gravity fed fuel from a tank on the roof...

The conversion kits, less alternator, are $20 ea. Only a few hundred left.. fit a plethora of older MVs with the 25 Amp system... PM me at rampartsllc@aol.com for purchase. The biggest differences you can see on the 60 AMP ALTS would be Autolite (prestolite) versus Leece Neville. CME...

Hundreds of em sold out of Camp Blanding over the past few years... they are all over florida... check out the First Florida Chapter of the MVPA

Some trucks were fixed at birth and have no protection at all.. and until the old age drips come along, don't need one.

Everybody is right...some by contract and some by field modification..most of em went to Civil Air patrol and cop agencies and so forth by donation...and everyonce in a while one pops up in DRMS...usually wity a leaky roof and of course AC and DC power wiring.

chebby dealer 14061649 is the part #

check for corrosion in the socket where the bulbs are.. also, check the output of the two alts and the connections at the bosch relay for the alt kickin. Take two spare batteries with you and a set of Nato jumpers with alligator clamps on one end...just in case..good insurance...also bring a...

I know I got some plastic ones.. will look around for the old style..

Doggone gas pedal on what sounds like a M/F. incompatibility of components..ha.. I thought the Duce died in Italy around 1944. I would start with the fuel system... drain and clean the tank, back blow the fuel line from the primary filter to the tank...change all three filters.. bleed good...

RE: M59 update Well Ed, you should go for it... I missed your phone msg..too late to call back Tuesday. I have a lot of parts for that truck...gas engine and all.. you should buy it.. Transport will be cheap, no wide load etc...Rhode Island to you at 2 bux a mile is only $600. In pristine...

Dave Uhrig there in OHIO should be able to sell it for you.. www.armyjeeps.net

Don't try to overengineer the starting procedure, if the system is working right and you follow the visor instructions.. it will start... It is a combination of glowplugs, controller, high idle, timing and a host of other things which make it work right..The most important thing in the...

remember that if you are a person of size, the already cramped cab is further compromised by the spring and shock ride seat ....for folks like me who grew up in these trucks, the original seat is the better alternative...for sure...

They came OEM with a jamnut of the spring steel variety..but two nuts of the same thread size butted together will work fine..if there is not enough thread sticking thru for the second nut, back off on the incab handle until you can do the job...just did same yesterday here in leaf peeper season...

rubber fuel line is the way to go... just cut out the bad section and put in the rubber with worn drive stainless steel clamps and because it is just the fuel delivery and return lines under low pressure you will be fine... Taking the cab off will take more than 29 minutes. You will note that...

Remember to raise the number and put the red C on top if you are towing a trailer.