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If I am correct the OP was saying the half shaft was still attached to the hub where someone just went in and stripped the brakes off of one side so the half shaft should be the correct one although he needs to inspect it carefully for damage to the boots as it has been flopping around, and as...
If it is the correct half shaft then you cannot install it from underneath the flange, you have to position it in front of or behind the flange and as high as you can get it before trying to get it in place, if that makes any sense, the shaft will not compress enough to go straight up with it.
Well then maybe some patience is needed
All that a working IP needs to pump fuel is power the the run solenoid, fuel to the IP and the IP shaft to turn, if you have all three of those things the IP must pump or it is not working correctly.
If you cannot get it to pump fuel you may want to remove...
Is wire 54 plugged into the correct terminal of the IP, would be the one closest to the front of the engine.
Was the IP rebuilt? if not was it running before the rebuild?
Do you have fuel coming out of the return fitting on the IP?
Can you hear the fuel solenoid "kick" when voltage is applied?
I did not realize it was good for 50A, I was under the impression it was 20-25A, there should be no reason for him to use an external equalizer, but if he is bound and determined to install a device that part of its job is to equalize the batteries I would think he would not want two devices...
If the original glow plugs test OK (near zero ohms) and are not swollen I would re-use them, much of what is "out there" is junk today.
If bound and determined do allot of research and try to get the best ones you can, there are threads claiming even some from reputable dealers have issues.
The FAV is just not ready to travel, and because of my "little" accident that will not change before the meet, I was thinking of running up there with the "Detroit" but so far nurse Ratched says not unless I take something that would have a pretty much zero chance of needing wrenching or could...
Let me study it, I need to figure out if the temp switch is carrying the total current of the valve or if the TDM is acting like a relay, taking a smaller signal and amplifying it which would complicate things.
I think we should also move this to the mods forum where it actually belongs.
Probably not enough, sitting for decades is usually the problem, I would start with the one you suspect first.
In all the years I have worked on Roosamaster injection systems (started in 1978 with the 5.7L "Oldsmobile" series engine) I have never seen more than one bad injector at a time.
Now I...
Allot cheaper to try an injector.
You me and the man on the moon can make all the assumptions we want but you will not know what the problem is until you ether discover by substitution or testing, nobody can jump in here and say if it is an injector or not, was this the same cylinder you were...
The reason it runs worse with fuel is because the injector is leaking fuel into the cylinder, that cylinder fires prematurely (long before TDC) causing the engine to run rougher and the piston to knock as it is actually trying to stop the piston, it also runs "rich" because the fuel being leaked...
I would wire it to the thermal switch, short across the switch to never run, open the circuit to always run and complete the circuit to run automatically.
I can draw up a schematic tomorrow afternoon, going to the beach at 5am so I have to catch some ZZZZZ
Or you can pop it out and have your local diesel injection shop look at it if you have one.
Seco lists the same injector for both the 6.2 and 6.5L NA engine
You can open a can of worms pulling a glowplug, most say if its bad it needs to be pulled anyway, just be ready to purchase a quality extractor if only half of the glowplug comes out.
You might look at the usual places for an injector, mac motors, Seco, hummer parts guy, AMG does not seem to...
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