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Not a crack that I can see, looks like they got careless with the rivet gun, does not look to be serious enough to warrant a replacement IMHO

This is one of my shortcomings, Logically you should have tested it after cleaning the contacts but before swapping the TCM. I do this same kind of thing all the time, then I am left wondering where the actual failure was.

What about the J1 connector?

You can put a want for it in the classified section. I do not think it was ever offered by itself as it is a part of the basic door frame, if damaged the entire door frame would be replaced. I of course could be 100% wrong but normally when the parts breakdown does not show a separate...

I believe that is part of the door and not considered replaceable.

You need to get the codes if any, otherwise you are just guessing

57K3529 Comes with instruction, of course one of the first things the instructions tells you is to remove fuel tank.. :) I believe some have done it in place though.. About the only thing you can "access" is the fuel sending unit.

Yep, the 60A only has two belts

Just look at the bolts you have, it is going to be "standard" thread. If the threads look pristine then I would suspect it came with "interference" or locking threads to keep them from coming loose and running a tap through will defeat that intention. Looking in the parts TM I see part number...

IIRC that thread for the door hinge is 1/4-20, again IIRC most of the "body" bolts are USS ( USA course thread) there may be exceptions.

Is the hood aligned? Make sure the bumper is not "pushing" the hood into place, have another person hold the other side and hold it above the bumper and check the alignment, super easy to adjust. Also with the hood open make sure the bumper is centered on the bracket it's bolted to.

Too bad you did not get on here earlier, before you spent so much time and money chasing your tail. The "leaking" you speak of is normal, transmission fluid is allowed into that area to lube the splined coupling, you must however clean that horrible mess someone made with the over application of...

Welcome to the SS forum!

You need to remove all that old sealer that's on both cases. It does not look like they were bolted together correctly as I said there should only be a thin layer of sealer on that surface. Why did you pull the TC?

YES, you have to seal the mating surfaces between the trans and transfer case, why there is sealer there

IIRC the TC input is sealed and it is wet between them (trans not sealed), what I do not understand is how there could be SO much sealer on that surface, they should have been bolted together flush with only a thin layer of sealer between them.... EDIT, I think the seal you see is because the...

Hanging hub is what you want, do not compress the suspension, it only makes the problem worse. Have you looked up the correct parts you need in the free to download TMs? it will save you time and money.

You do not have the CV joint compressed, it will not go together like that, you have to push that shaft to one side or the other so you can line up the CV flange and compress it down the shaft and keep it compressed while installing it, it will never go together as shown in the 3rd picture. No...

Clean and dry and as is.

It can be frustrating installing a half shaft until you figure out how to rotate the CV flange in front of or behind the differential flange.