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I follow the 3k/1year rule which ever occurs first. As stated above the 6.2/6.5 are dirty engines compared to today's diesel engines so there is no real advantage to using expensive synthetic oils as they get contaminated at the same rate as the base oils so the change interval is not extended...

90% of all glowplug issues are connected to the EESS/PCB, ether not getting power to the plugs, working normal or power to the plugs all the time (which is what burns out the glow plugs), installing a light costs diddly squat and indicates 90% of all glow plug issues

The taper goes towards the retainer, the TM, picture and PS all the same to me.

I am so glad I took the advice I have given several times and put a light in my dash connected directly to one of the glow plug wires, I know exactly what my glow plugs are doing all the time...

There is no twisting motion that the keyed retainer is subjected to, there is a large washer #28 with a tab behind the retainer that prevents anything from trying to turn or twist the retainer, again this same type of design is used in millions of applications. The only way it can fail is if...

Probably has nothing to do with the casting plug, these are casting plugs, they are necessary for the casting process, the manufacturer never intended them to be used to protect the block from freezing but I suppose one day a casting plug was knocked out by the water freezing in an engine block...

I am with RWH, this type of bearing retainers have been in use since the beginning of the automotive industry and have been used on millions if not billions of applications. There are folks out there that take advantage of any type of hysteria and especially new comers to the HMMWV world fall...

The cold advance is inside the IP, I would think the first step would be see if you are getting 24V to the cold start terminal (the one towards the rear of the IP) when the run switch is set to run and the engine is stone cold.

Also you did say that it starts right up, this is not a normal scenario for a glow plug issue but that still would be your first troubleshooting step. After it warms up and sitting for a while does it smoke?

If you are getting 24V at the glow plugs when the wait light is on the EESS/PCB (control box) is not the problem. And for some reason you are making multiple redundant posts, when you "reply" everyone sees it. You need to troubleshoot the cold start system next.

Interestingly today at a local hot rod shop selloff I picked up this lot, the pedals and the slave cylinder are pretty much exact copies of the much earlier Neil components. The pedals are cast aluminum and there has been some refinement but basically same poop different cat box. The NOS in the...

Use a volt meter on one of the glow plug wires, SEE if the glow plugs get power while the wait light is on.

Snow? what is this snow you talk about??

Well I got the pedals finished today, with 3 brand new Wilwood master cylinders, all of the originals were 5/8 which is OK from a parts inventory point of view but the 5/8" is a little too small for the clutch, would make the pedal lighter but requires more throw, so I replaced the clutch master...

Welcome to the forum! Like Mark said above it sounds like you are still having some glow plug issues, better to actually troubleshoot rather than just replace parts.

You use a sharp probe and pierce the insulation.

I think the OP was asking about the driving experience.

That may be but you can simply look at the "factory" ones and the Chicom repops and the difference is obvious, GM has standards for anything that gets their name printed on it. The "factory" ones have heat/chafe protection for one thing, they use heavier wire and wire insulation for another.

These measurements would be made from the wires 290/291 and 657A to ground with the lamp connected.

Both plugs look correct, I do not see the 6.2/6.5L listed on the one with the heater so that heater itself may not fit your block. BUT the one with the heater has a "factory" plug and cord and the other looks aftermarket (read cheap)