Search results

Pm me your address and i'll send you a key.

I saw that on CL, looked good, now I only know of three left in the state (small state).

Peerless insurance, I never mentioned military , just a pickup truck ,diesel. and gave them the vin # . If they ask no questions I tell no lies.

The bolts to replace are the ones that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. When you slide the trans back in, the most important thing to remember is to keep the converter engaged into the trans front pump, you can feel the engagement by gently rocking the converter back and forth, there...

I agree fairly straight forward job slide trans back and remove the flex plate. It was about $90.00 at napa but I have seen posts on SS as low as $60.00 ifyou shop around. I recommend that you also replace the flex plate bolts as they are prone to break I think autozone had OEM bolts, about $20.00.

My M1008 came with a broken/loose flex plate the starter was good and cranked over the engine even with a trashed flex plate. I replaced the flex plate and a few times after the engine was warm and I went to start it the engine would kick back while starting it and it broke the starter cone...

Owning a CUCV and reading all the good info on SS I have learned that while working on my M1008 and refurbushing it, I made it a rule that if its rubber replace it and if its a ground clean it.

This is good, I was planning on the first few weeks of Feb in FL, maybe I can delay a week and make the 2010 rally. All depends on how much snow we get up here and how busy we are at work.

Wolf I'm pretty set in my ways and I'm too old to learn the metric system. At least I have learned to only open the metric drawer of my tool box when working on my CUCV.

There are also some for sale in the classifieds.

Welcome from the southern state of Rhode Island.

The gasket is available at NAPA, I just picked up three, and if you can't find a cover You could use the gasket as a template and have one made .

1969 thru 1989, drove M37, M38, M151, M880,M1009,M1008 and my favorite 1952 Reo Deuce nicknamed Irene.

Amsoil also has excellent waterproof synthetic grease and a synthetic 90W neither is effected by temp.

KC sometimes the tip swells up so its larger than the hole, the tool is a puller that slides over the GP and with steady pulling force extracts the swelled plug. I haven't needed on yet but it does seem to be a tool that should be in my tool box.

I'm in Rhode Island,could hide a few at a buddies farm.:wink:

ACM that is my thinking also, that down the road of time, that the body seams will start to rot out due to condensation that will collect against the metal.

My seat is a brown/tobacco color the dash is gray and the door panels maroon. I'm thinking of dying everything so it matches the seat but I also am thinking of using shelter halves to have the seat reapolstered then the brown and OD should look good also.

Yes the glow plug cycling is normal until the chamber heats up.

Thanks to SS and reading about all the PITA'S when replacing the fuel lift pump, I chose to change it out as preventive maintenance. Almost a piece of cake but then I did have the exhaust manifold and head off.:wink: