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For the 60 amp, it's because it is 24V only. The front battery tends to charge a little higher than the second battery, and over time this means that the front battery overcharges, while the rear battery undercharges. Easily taken care of by rotating the batteries every month or two, but that...

If it were me I would run a 24v-12V converter to charge up the 12V battery and leave the TCM on the original bank, as well as the 14V tap from the generator. Probably tie an isolator in so that the 12V bank gets disconnected when the truck is turned off. My reasoning for this is that I refuse...

Typically 5% is close enough unless your equipment has sensitive electronics. 57-63hz shouldn't cause any issues. Just for peace of mind sake, Generac for many years made generators that ran at 58hz in order to be just that little bit quieter when running. I have yet to hear of any issues...

My battery of choice at this point is NorthStar. U.S. manufacture. The ones in my HMMWV were bought through BatteriesPlus, and have a 5 year full replacement warranty.

Least expensive would likely be Treadwright tires. They are a remold tire (not to be confused with retread), and I haven't heard anything bad about them, other than you have to buy the warranty to go with the tires (only like $12 I think for a 1 year warranty) Other than that Feltz tire seems...

You might be better off to have 12v maintenance chargers, one for each battery, rather than a single 24v maintainer. I've heard of a lot more failures with them since they moved their manufacturing to Mexico. Optima used to be one of the best, now they're just a premium import, and well below...

One potential issue with mounting a fuel tank higher than the day tank is the chance it could gravity siphon fuel into the day tank even after the unit is shut down. You would lose all the fuel in the aux tank onto the ground and into the housing of the generator.

I have gloves, but have never really gotten into the habit of using them. It always seems to end up more hassle than it is worth to me, so they typically only come out when dealing with lots of grease, like bearings and such. Mine aren't green though, so that could be part of the issue.

Yes. Torque wrench and loctite are in the manual, the nord locks are not. Considering I only seem to notice this when it's become a major issue, I will take any advantage I can get to keep it from happening again.

That's not grease, Just dust and brake dust. It doesn't like to come off though, had to wash my hands 3 times before I felt safe touching anything in the house, and that was so I could go take a shower.

Last week I replaced the rear brakes, then took it to an event over the weekend. On the way home I started hearing noise from the front. Of course it's 50 miles from home, almost as far as the last time it happened. Crawled under, and found the driver's side brake caliper mounting bracket had...

I would say that the Delco alternator is a good option for an older truck, the only caveat being you should still put in some type of battery balancer system, or at least rotate them every month in order to keep them equalized. it is a simple, easily available alternator with a very high level...

My M1123 scales at 7k with troop seats, Red Dot aircon, and some tools and tire chains in the rear seat footwells. With the BEOD on it and a bunch of tools/parts I scale at about 9500 lbs. I still have the heavy spring kit from the Marine Armor Kit installed. A couple of the guys around here...

I park mine on the driver's side. With lots of Rain-X on the windshield, having it parked on the driver's side above my line of sight keeps it from dripping/streaming down in front of my eyes.

Just for reference, when a battery is at 12.2V it's basically dead for starting purposes. 12.6 is considered a full charge, and anything less than that will be hard on the starting system as the starter motor will try to draw more amps with lower voltage.

Here is a pretty good list http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/parts/list/005.html

It really depends on the age and model of the HMMWV. As well as running condition. An earlier model you might get for under$10k before taxes/fees in running condition. A non-running early truck might be $5-7k A newer truck (6.5NA and 4 speed) can be anywhere from $12-20k. An even newer truck...

a lot of variables having to do with location, market conditions, licensing, etc. For a 2 man cab setup and licensed as on road, I would venture to say somewhere between $10-15k as a ballpark.

Are they load range "D" or "E" How much does your truck weigh? What is the weight on the front axle and the rear axle? Are you driving it on the highway, around town, or off road? What speeds are you expecting to hit as your maximum? There are a lot of variables that make up what pressure you...