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To be sure you could put something there - it would have to allow for the winch cable and room to get in there and do cable routing and any maintenance on the unit..... for sure you could devise something. It's not as simple as a big naked spot on the frame though.

It's just one way to illustrate the size of the winch and associated components. Someone asking about the stock hydraulic winch may not understand how much room it takes up, but they can probably conceptualize what 150 gallons of fuel requires for volume much easier. I'm only using it as a size...

M1088 and M1089 fuel tanks do not have the winch cutout in the tank and they are about 74 gallons. So the space behind the stock tank can absolutely accommodate that much and probably a bit more with a custom tank. If you replace both tanks with non-winch tanks that gives an increase of about 92...

Scope's are really cheap now. Between my Picoscope, my Rigol, an old CRT scope, and a couple of hand held units I think I have about 5 or 6 scopes. https://www.amazon.com/Oscilloscope-Bandwidth-HO52-Multimeter-Auto-Calibration/dp/B08VRDG94N

It does totally depend on your use case for the winch. For emergency self-recovery in "not a war zone" where time constraints are looser, etc - electric winches do the job and don't take up a space the size of 150 gallons of fuel (no joke). If you're running a logging camp or using the truck on...

I'm assuming you are using a DMM for voltage measurement? The DMM will not pickup transient voltage spikes and it will not show AC ripple - these alternators are very noisy and that's acceptable due to the brushless design. AC ripple up to +/- 2v is considered normal by Neihoff. You may not...

1: There are A0, A1, and A1R trucks. Most of the differences are the engine and wiring. There's other small things and beneficial running changes done throughout the production run. A1R trucks are the most desirable and most expensive. Newer = more money, lower mileage = more money. Just like...

There's plenty of non-metric on the truck. One thing that comes to mind immediately is the lug nuts, and another that I just did last weekend is the u-joints - the cap bolts are 5/16" x 24 (I chased them all with a tap)..... pretty much everything on the axles is SAE now that I think on it...

Can you provide any links with information on the fluid dynamics that contra-indicate use of antifreeze (mixed with water) for balancing? I'm certainly interested to read about it given that my tires are full of the stuff already :unsure: Anti-freeze contains corrosion inhibitors as well as...

The bead lock hardware weighs almost nothing. It's 4 bolts, and 4 nuts (like 5/16" thread - really small), and two small bars..... And there's a small gap in the bead lock ring itself so that further offsets the weight of the hardware. The TM makes no mention of a specific orientation for the...

CTIS hoses and valve are only about 11.5 ounces.

Yeah that doesn't sound right to me either. The E terminal only needs a momentary voltage input to "start" the voltage regulator. Once it starts, the VR controls alternator excitation and monitors voltage, load, etc - the AC terminal is a PWM output from the VR that indicates load. The VR and...

7.8:1 with stock 3.90's 6.14:1 with 3.07's 3:90:1 with ECO hubs and stock gears 3.07:1 with ECO hubs and 3.07:1 gears. If you don't already have 3.07's then stay with 3.90's if you plan on doing ECO hubs. The 3.07's are a little too high. It will work if you already have them but based on the...

After a bunch of experimentation I landed on about 80-90 psi and 64 ounces of antifreeze to solve my vibration around 65 mph (only showed up after I installed the CTIS valves). The antifreeze on it's own doesn't like the normal lower pressure that the CTIS runs - probably the rolling flat spot...

Mine leaked square on my head and down my back. Fixed with a gen one HIMARS hatch. They are SEALED once installed. Almost had to destroy the HIMARS cab to get it to give it to me. The factory turret covers are specifically not sealed well so a turret can be easily installed. You can...

They are all over ebay. Just search the NSN. 2520-00-388-4197 Here's a good one for a full set: https://www.ebay.com/itm/354319627676 Looks like that auction doesn't include the bolts but you can clean and re-use. Just use a dab of blue locktite. Torque to 30 Ft/lbs. Retail from the online...

I keep a 50' glad hand hose on my truck. With a tire inflator and impact. Works great. I also keep a blow gun on hand - great for blowing the dog hair out of my cab, cleaning my HVAC filter panel (AC console has recirc filter), and blowing the dust out of my habitat, etc. I have run a 3M DA...

Yep. Have that same tool. Works GREAT. Just did all my u-joints with genuine Meritor R-279X's (also made in Singapore like the originals).

2008 tires are garbage. One of my 2008 Goodyears let go on the freeway last year. Sidewall failure. Don't attempt it. Get new tires before you drive it. The tire in your picture of the driveline looks like hell. The driveline rust doesn't concern me more than the tires. Probably poorly prepped...

It does but unless you have a leaking tire or are using it all the time, there's not much air exchange. For most of us the tires stay in highway mode 98% of the time.