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care to share pics. I want to do this swap to mine

I can have the turbo rebuilt for 4-500.

check the compressor wheel for damage. sounds like it sucked some debris in and bent the comp wheel

pull start will only work if you open the screw on the IP.

one of the original holes is the handle for the fording system.

I have always used air tool oil. has worked good for me.

there is a guy on ebay that sells the military kit with all the mounts and straps and hold downs. it's about $350.

I have a pile of it I ordered from gma covers. pm me if you need some of it. $1/ft plus shipping.

ditto. mine had it too but I've since burned most of it off. that stuff has got some serious adhesion.

I've got them all. email me and I can try to send them out on pdf.

you can probably shift the front diff in on the fly and I've done it at speeds below 10mph but I've got no reason to try it at full speed. our lockout hubs do not require backing up.

no nhc 250 has oil squirters

cute. does it have chrome valve covers and a dixie horn?

should have checked the filter before driving off pretty common for a truck that has been sitting for months or longer... might have ruined the inj pump. I'd have it and and all the injectors checked.

the ip is the same it's the cutoff solenoid that is different. hmmwv is waterproof and 24V where they are not on the chevy's.

I hate to say it but the TM's have a good diagram.

they do use different oil pans, intake, glow plugs, front water pump pulley and parts of the oil pickup and injector pump are different.

same as a deuce. make sure you use the cab plate.

I've got a napa oil filter that doesn't hold oil, so I'm getting slow oil press after it sits for a few days.

I think you want to rethink mounting the rears on top of the budd studs. not a good idea. you just want to use front nuts on the rear.