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The original one mounts up in front of the intercooler right above the skid plate

In the 6x6 cargo truck the trans cooler is mounted under the bed with fans. Basically the same thing mounted sideways behind the cab on a tractor. The AC condenser might be able to fit under there. Nice out of the way place.

Its accessed behind the passenger kick panel. No fuses. You need to start small. Does the fuel solenoid work with the dash switch? Engine ecu power also? 24v at starter? Can you jump the start solenoid and crank the engine?

In the first gen trucks the VIM module will cause a no start if the trans ecu sees something it dosnt like. You can open the vim and use a jumper lead to bypass each relay one at a time. In the A1 trucks there is no VIM the trans ecu does it all.

There is no "it's this" forum answer for your issue. And I don't have an A1 troubleshooting manual. The cat dealer should be able to plug into and run diag on the truck.

Don't you have another thread on this? His truck is an A1 so a bit more to this. You need to diagnose. Does the fuel solenoid engage when you turn on the power switch? Do you have proper power to the engine computer? You can jump the starter solenoid to crank the engine. If it has fuel and the...

AC compressors are cheap on the Internet. I would go with 24 volt over 12.

When you turn the power switch on does it engage the fuel solenoid on the engine?

I have the Miltope software it wont let me install all of it though it complains my machine is not miltope. I have the load controllers also. For some reason I cant post pics today though. You can test the solenoids with a multimeter very easy to do.

I understand the basic setup and how the newer style load box works but I dont have much A1 truck experience so I couldnt say what each individual relay does. The one in the back is a higher current relay compared to the other ones. That is probably the main disconnect. Since yours is a van...

The batt load controller should be the same as the polarity protective box in the first gen trucks. Yours is supposed to control battery charging it should have an extra connector in addition to the 4 main power posts. Its under the spare tire. Only some of the A1 trucks have that battery cutoff...

I have the tool I am working on pulling a trans from one of my parts trucks. Its been snowy the last week or so and its really cold so maybe late next week if it warms up. Its shown in operation online.

Get the tool. OTC 5190A. Army mechs keep the same style in their tool kit thats what they use to pull the driveshafts. Its too easy to cause damage hammering the ujoints out. Will

Sounds like an electrical gremlin if the low air buzzer was buzzing quietly. Bad grounds bad connections. The trans ecu does not do well without proper voltage.

I like the crimp then solder and heat shrink over for the best possible long lasting connection. I have seen alot of military-done crimp connections corrode over years of service and go bad. Something solder along with the original crimp would have prevented.

With 3 solid lights on the controller it's probably not sending commands to the valve body

They are solenoid relays. You can actuate them with 24v and meter the contacts. They should probably both be replaced and are commonly available. Like any other high current relay the contacts wear out over time. It's a simple design and quite rebuild able. I would replace the damage wire also.

Tomorrow I can take apart my bad valve and see whats going on inside there. Maybe give some insight into how air moves thru it. Will

In the TM is a "driveshaft hinging test" it shows how to check for excessive play. Excessive play anywhere in the driveline will lead to all kinds of issues to include throwing driveshafts.