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Ordering a title adds another 4-8 weeks....the SF97 has to come back and than sent to Utah for processin.

SF97’s come about 3-8 months after actual pickup....

You can use power steering fluid and for serious Off roading, it’s actually recommended. ATF has the habit of cavitation, this causes air, this in turn causes issues in the steering when you need it the most. You can replace your ATF with PS fluid as along as you do a good flush. The Same...

this is algae....it will kill the injection pump. Your fuel filter probably is no good even now.

Fuel tank was no better

TACOM approved is utter BS and a lie...there is only one company that makes halfshafts for the military hmmwv and that’s GKN, the logo is stamped into the shaft housing. milspec shafts are also painted Black CARC, not some black dye and rusts within month. Your statement that some guy in Ga is a...

Your NOS shaft is a Chinese knockoff...they are inherently garbage FYI. make sure the shaft is fully seated into the upper spur gear, there is no reason to install the bolt till last. attempt to rotate the inboard side of the shaft from the rear and up and into the rotor and flange. I have...

it only takes a 1/2in lift...it’s only so that you can remove or install the intake cross over.

jump starting kills EESS boxes and voltage regulators....the military is well aware of it.

I own no less than 13 trucks, all with 200’s...I’ve never had a bad 200amp generator in my shop...NEVER, I’ve had numerous bad regulators, as a matter of fact, I have a stack of bad ones, all of which did something different When they failed.

If it’s just a body lift, most are done extremely poorly, removing it is quite simple, just remove the shims they used, check fuel tank to drive shaft alignment, check transmission linkage...but it just depends on how much of a body lift was installed. A 1in lift for example requires no...

Unwrap the tag....the numbers are on it.

the 60amp alternator goes on bracket that uses a bolt on the front and back, the bracket is threaded with a helicoil, the bracket is usually aluminum, you also need the rear support and spacer. The 200amp bracket is steeel snd the hole is NOT threaded, it uses long 7/16 bolt about 9in” long. so...

wiggle the shifter or bypass the neutral start switch, as the NSS could be bad. may also want to put the ignition switch wired back to stock to see if it’s the box you refer too. one of the features of the start box “EESS” is starter lockout...so it’s possible something like you mentioned has...

Is the truck in park or neutral?

Want box do you have? I’m going to guess it’s a yellow label Narton EESS, I’ve got a stack of bad ones here at the shop that all came out of GP M1123’s. I have brand new Narton S3’s for sale...but I’m running low on them.

short The wires together....the switch is just opening and closeing to allow or deny voltage.

An m998 doesn’t compare to an A2 truck...much more power the 4 speed is night and day.

What You just stated tells me the box is bad and the New set of plugs your about to install will work one time and grenade. This Is not uncommon when the box fails, the glow plug timer won’t expire and continues to send 24v to the plugs after the wait light expires....had this issue on a truck...

repops are of new style seat bases and wedges..not seat base boxes as in early trucks