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PCB ”protective control box” gets a glow plug controller EESS of any Mfg gets a TSU “Temp sending unit”

IN

any type of bounce is tire Balancing , a shimmy Is usually a worn pitma, idler, ball joint or rod end. the M1123’s coming out “about 65% of them I get into the shop” have out of round tired due to sitting for 11hrs in the desert.

That’s the registration number....usually also on the dataplate below the SN.

Lose the centramix. I’ve found them to be useless, and even cause issues, just my experience. have you taken the truck in for an alignment check?

That picture is ancient, been out on the Web for many many years....

2 yellow leads on rear battery for 4L80e trucks.. one is TCM 12 v feed, the other is the 14v tap from the regulator to prevent battery imbalance.

it’s not a split system, per sey....any hmmwv can add a 200amp gen and you have the capability. the 200amp is the standard for ALL trucks...60amp is out of the system. even than...most accessories don’t draw enough noticeable amps to make a difference anyway.

The WP in a hmmwv is a standard GM pump, has no less than 5 or more various part numbers. its used worldwide, this pump should be no problem to just about anywhere I would figure. dont attempt to look for it by that one part number, look up the NSN 2930-01-353-5794 and see every part number ever...

oh....

For the time and cost, why not just replace the pump?

so what your saying is AM General did it wrong and the internet experts way of doing it is the correct way? yea, I don’t think so....OEM pulls all 12v from the rear battery, the job of the 14v tap off the regulator is to correct any imbalance, it’s clearly working in how many current hmmwv’s. As...

Not sure what this “Lower battery” is...it’s either a front or rear battery in reference to the truck. pull direct from the “Rear battery, both pos and negative, never use body as a ground. To make it easier, run a positive and negative to a good Marine grade fuse block, as high up as possible...

You can, but I don’t, the turbo harness routes to the front of the motor and is preformed to route that way. Many of the connections move to different spots, some are even eliminated as turbo trucks moved those connections to the body harness, either way, you will require splicing some connections.

Find an OEM gear...or find a shop to rebuild. That or end up like all,the others who have failed. ebay, FB forums

A0/A1 trucks....I have a couple A0’s that work that way. Again...fan engagement based on thermostatic switch opening and closing. Funny thing is, there is only one part Number for the switch, some seem to open earlier than others. thermostatic switch Is notorious for failing, or ranging from...

As I stated in my first comment, your system is operating normal, your temps are normal....your chasing you tail and spending money you don’t need to spend, this seems to be something I see folks Constantly doing Because they have never owned a diesel, mil vehicle or hmmwv Before. i own about 13...

Trans kick down...plug it back in

The way to test the TC lockup is tap the brake pedal at about 45-50mph, you should have a surge of Rpm’s as the TC unlocks, Keep your foot on the gas pedal at the same time you tap the brake.