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If you search for the #5 bolt by its manufactures number 12339406-2, two of the widely recommended sites to do business with pop up. HPG (hummer parts guy) and Kascar (real4wd) Register an account with the ones you want to do business with. For small things like this it is best to fill your cart...

Instead of googling everything try cracking open the TMs all the answers are there. I will help you on this one. Here is a link that has all the TMs you need to start. https://www.nsnlookup.com/equipment-intelligence/land/hmmwv Since you have one of the non advanced trucks you would work down...

Did you get this resolved? if so what was the issue.

Please post pictures of your radiator setup.

I was going to say if it was too low, set it to .5v, .51 would also work, as long as it does not go below .2v or higher than 4.9v it will "work" just the shift points may be a little off. Setting it to .5v is not the correct procedure but will get you real close.

What is the narrowest recommended rim? The 39.5-13.5-R16.5 "ROK-08" tires recommend a min of 10" I am thinking I can get away with the 9" wheels. The tire will have more crown than it would have with the 10" wheels, but again I think I will give it a shot and see how they wear.

Also on page 75 is a pretty simple test procedure for the brake TCC switch.

Here is the TPS circuit, you simply take a volt meter and pierce the insulation on wire 355 with the positive lead of your meter and ground the negative lead, you should see aprox .5v at idle and 4.5V at WOT (wide open throttle) Run switch on and of course you want to unplug the glow plug temp...

If you read the suggested page in the troubleshooting manual you will realize unplugging the wire will only tell the transmission the brakes are on all the time. If you are going into limp mode with the TPS plugged in you must start there anyway, the transmission will NEVER work correctly...

Which ones are you buying? I am looking at the ROK-08

Seems like a decent price for the rack considering what it costs to fill it.

What is strange is at that point 458 normally would be terminating into a molded plug for the TDM

458 carries 24V from the "RUN" circuit to the fan thermal switch to the TDM, I don't see a 700 anything on the schematics, certainly does not mean it's not there though.

According to this 458 is part of the fan clutch circuit, but I am too tired to look at the schematics, what do your schematics say?

If you take the sending unit input to the gauge and ground it, it should read empty, if not you have a gauge problem.

That means ether the wire is not getting to the sending unit, the sending unit is bad or the sending unit is not grounded, have you taken any resistance readings? you should be reading between just a few ohms to ground to around 90 ohms at the sending unit wire at the gauge #28 , if not it...

Believe me I am not trying to harp on this but this is an example of why you should familiarize yourself with the TMs first so you know what fluids etc. to use. If you had filled your system with DOT 3 (or 4 or 5.1) you would have contaminated it, the only way to correctly clean up that mess is...

That coolant should work, looks like the NAPA Brake Fluid Mac's DOT 5 Brake Fluid Is the stuff you need.

The heater core does not care if the fan is on or not, unless your truck came with factory AC the heater water flow is controlled by a cable on the dash, it leaks by enough anyway so that is a non issue. Make sure to use spec fluids, DOT 5 SILICONE brake fluid ONLY, not 5.1 and yes it is very...

I just got an estimate for a NA radiator, I am told it is an industrial core, $1300, ouch!!! I would think the turbo would just be a few dollars more, going to a second shop this week.