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Actually there are 4

I don't see how if both can handle 2500a/10s why there would be a difference. There are many examples of a company creating a new part number to fill say a gov. contract, if the gov says they want a 100A switch they will not buy a 250A switch. The M1101 and the M1102 trailers are prime...

That may not be the right one, This one is the one I use, it is rated for 250A continious service...

The yellow and blue would go through the small switch, and the big switch on the red, no switch on the green Those switches will work fine. 2500A for 10 seconds should do the job :giggle: , same switch I use, I use a Cole Hersey like this one for the small but that Hella will be fine.

pry bar

Use a small chisel and lay it flat on the shaft in front of the key, as you try to knock the key back it will roll out of the shaft. It looks like a 3/4" washer might work the specs call for a .766-.797 ID and a 1.172-1.203" OD, by .0478 thick, most 3/4" washers are a little over size. You might...

The key is no good, I am surprised at how good the shaft looks, the pulley must be much softer, it looks like you just did not get the pulley tight enough. I ordered 4 keys off of fleybay just to have stock, they will be here early next week if you want drop me a PM with your address and I will...

The small switch cuts the smaller 12V connection to the middle of the batteries not the heavy connection between the batteries.

Switch 1 the BIG switch cuts the ground side of the low side battery (24V) the smaller switch that most folks think is good enough for the main switch is used to disconnect the connection to the middle of the batteries (12V) turn off the small switch first and turn on the small switch last.

That pulley listed has a different offset than the ones we are running, I assume that is because of a different serpentine belt setup on the earlier trucks under 197K serial number. but they did build a pot load with solid pulleys.

I just talked to Trailworthy fab and they said I should not have any issues using Interco radial tires and how to remove 1/4" if I do.

This 200A serpentine application shows the solid pulley but it uses a key

That pulley is keyed and the shaft in the TM looks like it is keyed and shows a key,, I cannot remember now if I have a key on mine or not.

I have been running one but for only about 3K with no problems, can't see how a little rust would hurt, you did clean the bore and stuff yes?

If that is the one you bought then it is a solid pulley and the nut did not get tight enough allowing the pulley to spin on the shaft, if that is a 400A alt I don't think they were ever intended to have a solid pulley way too much rotating mass.

IIRC the TC fill plugs are 32mm If it has been sitting a long time I would suspect the trans is low, usually as the cooler and torque converter slowly drain back into the pan it will show over full. That is why you normally check with the engine running.

It sure does not look like it, I have been wrong before,,,if the center of the hub is also moving on the shaft then the shaft is damaged to the point the pulley will not come off as the shaft is straight with no taper or keyway, again I could be wrong... EDIT, I am wrong... that shaft does have...

That pulley has an overrunning clutch in it that the bearings have gone south in, will likely need to use a puller to remove. EDIT, I was wrong!

What were you getting at WOT?