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If you can get the correct plug and know the wiring pinout you can solder the proper rated cable to it yourself. Other than that you might have luck on eBay or posting in the want section here.
In CT 1995 would be 20 years since its 2015. I have been having issues with the 12v side of the 100a alternator and I have the kit new in the crate. Its an odd alternator its 12/24 but appears designed to be used in a "combined system" like our trucks have. Many of the dual voltage Niehoff...
You live in Maine a bill of sale would have done just fine. I registered mine with a bill of sale from me to me. It would be nice to have a pinned removeable push bar in front like the humvees have. I'm the gizmo guy I modify everything. I have a 200 amp alternator upgrade kit I am doing next...
No airflow thru the condenser equals not much cooling. If you are driving and air is flowing you should be ok but in traffic or idling you won't have much cooling without fans.
I sold a ton of the kits but never installed one. It's only recently that the humvees have been released in quantity most of the kits I sold went in 5tons. A condenser is a condenser you will need one large enough for your system. Sometimes you can take the housing off and still use the fans...
Checked that spot mine has the harness a bit different but no rubbing. I looked all around and in the dash didnt see anything shorted out. Gotta check the engine bay and where the wires go into the cab from the outside.
Yes you can drive without operational ctis it just inflates and deflates the tires. There is some interaction between the ctis control and trans computer. You should be ok just unplugging the controller.
No I didn't see it. I will look though. 24 volt is fine its the 12 volt sense line to the regulator. If I can find where it comes from I can run a new wire. It does not appear to come off the batteries maybe the power block under the spare tire.
Does anyone know where the alternator gets the sensing feeds to the regulator I have an issue with the 12v the sense line is reading low, and is causing an issue with regulation. I followed it into a bundle. The TMs don't really have a full schematic and there's no troubleshooting for 12v...
Added rev cam. Makes it much easier in reverse and I can leave it on with the push of a button. I was driving around I need to remember I am over the wheels and go forward a bit more before turning I am used to driving my old 5-ton. Next comes a radio with subwoofer and more lights.
And there are 12 volt and 24 volt taps on the underside of the power panel if you are hooking up low draw accessories say under 10 amps or so this is the perfect location to add a fused link to tap power.
I saw a kit at one time I am pretty sure it was for lmtv trucks to lower the hitch. There were lots of them run thru auction a few months ago and I have seen them pop up for sale on eBay. Wholly overpriced though. A dodge pickup can tow 20k I don't see why the m1078 couldn't easily do that...
It's ok its all fmtv talk what does it matter. I have not been impressed with all so called equivalent. I have found you get what you pay for when it comes to fluids.
Mil trucks in general you have to wind a bit to shift. There may be a trans fluid pressure adjustment. Once you warm up the fluid may thin out a bit. Probably motor oil in there. Switching over to allison dex 3 may help along with filter change and tuneup.
Codes can be accessed from the mode menu on the display. The code ref guide is available online. I did find a few lousy grounds. Inside the batt box is a big ground bolted to right side of the dash I added a star washer and really tightened it down that seemed to help also. Funny when I was...
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