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Steyr parts are obtainable in Europe with a vin number. I went that route for fmtv parts but the mil serial number cannot be used for any cross reference.

And it would have to be secure. You dont want it coming off during operation. I have seen removeable adapter kits used on classic cars to help prevent theft. I believe they were for straight bolt on style wheels though. The horn switch can always be relocated with a push button switch mounted...

Torn boot

They will not help at aaa and I'm not sure you would want them to. Many of the trucks have no batteries. Fluids may not be correct GP takes drained trucks and adds fluids then jumps them off another truck. Its around 1100 bucks to get it back to CT if I do it with another truck.

Probably the one. All green. One of the only mtv trucks I have seen go thru PA. I remember it going for decent money for its condition.

It's at the back lot of AAA Towing in Fayetteville. Don't let them do any work on it. If it runs and drives I'm sure you could negotiate a small fee to have them hold on to it. Or ask bikeman to pick it up and I can get it back to CT at a reasonable price in the next few weeks. I have 2 trucks...

It looks practically identical to the M915 M916 M920 steering shaft I am thinking its some type of upgrade. I have a big pallet of them.

One was sold off in PA a few months ago newer A1 all green one super clean truck other than the fact it had been completely submerged.

I have a few of these I believe they are updated versions of the M915 M916 and other AM General semi truck steering shafts. The part numbers dont seem to cross to anything in the TM's that I could find. Dimensions to the M915 version are about the same. Can anyone shed any light on this? Thanks Will

I had new o rings for the I injector. I had someone helping me if there was a copper gasket right on the tip end it was reused. The fuel solenoid is a little funny there is a arm above right of the solenoid it has to be moved manually into position to start the gen. I think it just needs a good...

Normal driving operation but engine off. Engage front winch pto lever. Start truck leave in neutral. You will want to get the rpms up a bit or you will have a really slow winch. If you turn up the fuel a bit the truck will drive better. Otherwise it's so darn heavy it can't get out of its own...

The injector came right out with my home made cummins injector puller. Old gasket was hard and falling apart. Got it all back together and running it started blowing a geyser of coolant out the radiator cap. Drained all the coolant took off the upper and lower radiator hoses and flushed the heck...

Transfer case in neutral shifter in neutral then engage the wrecker pto lever. Once in drive 1 the engine rpms need to be set to 1800 or so. Engine needs to be off to engage front winch lever then truck in neutral to run it. You can't run the front winch and wrecker body at the same time.

The front gladhands are for towing only not supply like on the M939 trucks. If you look on the cover it has a vent on each same as axle vents. If the vents are clogged or if some bug nests in there and it cant breathe, this can cause the brakes to not release. Behind the front grill is a small...

Does the exhaust have constant pressure or something? So water cant get it. Its pretty low but the engine does move a good volume of air. There is an air line from the exhaust to the intake filter box.

With a full tire, and when you know the truck will be sitting for some time, take off the feed line from the hub to the wheel valve. Leave the line from the valve to valve stem on. Get a good plastic bag scrunch it down over the wheel valve and rubber band it tight over the valve stem line. If...

Do I just pull the injector then use the special tool to unscrew the chamber? Do I need anything special to pull the injector?

I need to find a schematic diagram of the truck. Even if its something I can print in pieces and lay out. A p2p would be nice.

Its all mechanical. The wheel valve has a flapper and spring. The valve can be held open with around 18psi to allow the system to dump pressure. Down to 18psi at least. Fill pressure opens the valve and forces air in until tire pressure and incoming air pressure equalize. A bad hub seal or large...

I ordered the tool to get the chamber out. Never done it before is it a straightforward process?